The non-skid on the deck of my 15 year old boat is worn out and non-existent. I am hoping to find the time this fall to do an interior update as it looks a bit tired. I want to repaint the interior of the hull and then put down some new non-skid on the bow platform and deck. I am looking for some information about deck paint. I would like to keep things as simple as possible so would prefer a 1 part paint as opposed to a 2 part. Can anyone provide some first-hand information on boat paints, specifically what to use of not use?
My options are:
Put down a coat of deck paint and then tape off panels to put down non-skid (Kiwi Grip, etc) or
Put down a coat of paint that contains non-skid material.
Looking at:
Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Epoxy
Interlux Interdeck Non-skid
Pettit EZpoxy
Pettit EZ Decks Non-Skid
Duralux Marine Enamel
Thanks!
Do some more research on 2 part vs 1 part. 2 part isn’t that much more difficult to use and is vastly superior for appearance and durability. Many are put off by the added cost of 2 part paint. However, since time is money, a majority of the expense is prep work. Kiwigrip is a good product, but if you do decide to use a 2 part paint, then I would go the non-skid additive route.
Iain Pelto
Pathfinder 2000V
'71 Scout “Ugly Duckling”
FYI, this is Interlux Perfection 2 part paint with grey Kiwigrip on a Scout 13 I restored with a few changes.
Iain Pelto
Pathfinder 2000V
'71 Scout “Ugly Duckling”
Experance has taught me to not waste time with 1 part paint! Buy and use a 2 part urithane , it will be with you for a long time. Its not as hard to use as it seams! Follow the directions by the letter. You won’t regret it!
I agree on 2 part.
I used Awlgrip with non-skid additive, fine and medium mixed together. It’s tough, but not very flexible, so in a couple of corners the paint has “cracked” showing lines. Other than that it’s a very nice product to work with and the finish is excellent right out of the gun.
Which brings up another question…are you equipped to spray?
My suggestion is to do a coat of deck paint, then tape off (use 3M FINE LINE TAPE) and apply non-skid. The contrast of the gloss deck paint and the dull non-skid looks awesome, and you can really make the boat “pop” with some nice designed panels of non-skid.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Okay, so I’ll consider the 2 part paint. I am not equipped to spray AND, I did fail to mention that the interior of my boat is that “splatter” look so I’m not looking for a super smooth finish. Not sure if that matters but probably should have mentioned it in my initial post. Thank you for all of your input.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
INTERLUX PERFECTION IS 2 PART, ROLLS AND BRUSHES EASY, HOLDS UP WELL, AND LOOKS GREAT WHEN COMPLETE.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED CAN BE PURCHASED AT WEST MARINE AS WELL.
I HAVE USED ALOT OF THE DIFFERENT BRANDS OVER THE YEARS, AND PERFECTION SEEMS TO HAVE THE BEST BALANCE BETWEEN DURABILITY, FLEXIBILITY, AND EASE OF USE.
I WOULD DO EXACTY WHAT LEADEWAH SAYS, WITH INTERLUX PERFECTION.
THE SINGLE PART PAINTS DO NOT HOLD UP WELL, ESPECIALLY WITH NONSKID.
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Sounds like a plan. Thanks folks!
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
For non show boats go with kiwi grip. I have used it on many boats. It holds up well, and looks good.
Tall Sail Marine
I have had a great experience with a SEM product called GripTide. It can be rolled or sprayed although spraying has to be done with a bed-liner gun. Rolling it is super easy and fast to do. I have had it on 2 boats for over a year now with no problems. It can be tinted or painted over and comes in a variety of colors from SEM. It comes in a kit with the already textured paint and activator. The kit also comes with rollers which vary in porosity. You can easily dictate the roughness of the texture with the style of roller and wetness when it is applied. I would highly recommend it for fiberglass or aluminum.
Trust me, this boat is no “show” boat. Thanks again all.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
I will amend my statement regarding Kiwigrip. If redoing non-skid on a finished deck (I.e. the deck and inner liner was pulled from a mold and is a flat, smooth surface) then using non-skid mixed with the 2 part paint would be my prime path. I used Kiwigrip on my Scout project because it is a one piece boat with an unfinished interior (like a Carolina Skiff) and it does a great job hiding all of those irregularities. I also used on the deck which were new panels (smooth and flat) to be the same as the floor. I have 2 years on the product with no signs of aging or wear although the boat does get treated like royalty (respect your elders as she is 47 years old). As said before, a contrasting color done right can really improve the look of the boat.
Kiwigrip does not like gasoline which quickly softens it, but it will harden if the spill is wiped up. It is also extremely easy to blend a repair.
Iain Pelto
Pathfinder 2000V
'71 Scout “Ugly Duckling”
DF just in case you are considering another product at this point, don’t! I painted my flats boat eight years ago from top to bottom with Perfection and I could not be happier. This boat is sunbaked 365 days a year and has two coats of Interlux Perfection covering the entire boat and still looks great. As long as your prep work is done properly the Perfection is a great product. I rolled and tipped the entire boat. I used the Interlux non-skid additive and rolled the decks and it has provided plenty of grip. If you don’t like the bright shiny glossy look then they have a flattener you can add to the mixture or just scrub it down a couple times with some soft scrub and a course bristle brush for more of a matte finish. I would highly recommend performing the work in a well ventilated also make sure you wear a half face chemical respirator as the stuff is pretty potent. I just used the regular 3M edge lock tape for all of my borders but if you have a lot of turns and such 3M also makes a more pliable automotive paining tape that you might want to consider. West Marine and Parks Auto have it.Finally make sure you go to Sherwin Williams and get a solvent resistant roller the other ones will begin to disintegrate and leave roller mat behind making for a messy cleanup. Post up some before and after pictures. You will probably want to wait till the fall when humidity and temperature are down.
Hairball I am assuming the white is Perfection and the Gray is the single part Kiwi? You didn’t topcoat the Kiwi with Perfection did you? DF the “fine line” that Leaden mentions is the more pliable tape I was referring to; I could not remember what it is called. This paint is thin much like automotive paint so ensuring your tape lines are tight to the surface is critical otherwise the paint will cheap under. I cleaned the surface real well before applying the tape and then went back across the tape with a credit card evenly pushing it down to make sure I had a good bond before I started paining.
This is all great information. I want to paint the entire interior (of the hull) which as I said is that “splatter” look and then tape off “panels” to add non-skid to. Regardless of whether I use non-skid in paint or whether I use Kiwi Grip, it sounds like the 2-part Perfection is the way to go. I do like how Kiwi Grip hides imperfections because my boat has a few of those. I’m also thinking that I really would only need to paint areas that will not have non-skid so if I use Kiwi Grip, I can lay that down on the existing surface once it has been prepped. That would save me some time and money as far as the painting is concerned.
This is what I will be covering up. I plan to eliminate the fishing chair deck plates so I’ll be filling that hole and a couple of others.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
The entire boat was primed with interlux 2 part primer. I only painted the areas I needed to with perfection. Then taped off the areas for non skid, scuffed thr areas of perfection within the tape lines with 80 grit, then rolled the kiwi grip per the instructions
That’s what I figured. Typically you can paint single part over epoxy/two part but not vice versa. If you attempt to put two part over single it will essentially melt it.
Now that you have all the advice you need. Bonzo said if you offer this job as “free art lessons” for someone you could probably get someone to prep and paint it for you.
I’ve personally seen Hairball’s “Ugly Ducklin” and it’s amazing - he’s got skillz and is smarter than most of us put together
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207
www.eyestrikefishing.com #predatorsstriketheeye
quote:
Now that you have all the advice you need. Bonzo said if you offer this job as "free art lessons" for someone you could probably get someone to prep and paint it for you.
That is brilliant Andy! If it worked for Bonz, it has to work for me. I know I will however, have to deal with snotty comments from Peapod.
I will start getting stuff together with “plans” to start after summer.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?