I’ve got some issues- has anyone a mechanic they recommend?
Thanks in advance!
I have a 1999 Silverado 4X4. I do almost all of my mechanic work; however, there are things that I won’t do. When that happens I take my business to Fipps and Sons down on Johns Island. It’s a hike if you live anywhere other than John/James Island, but I find the guys to be honest and reasonably priced. I had them put in a new Jasper 350 a couple of years back and am fixin’ to have them rebuild the rear end.
If it’s something on the woman’s vehicle that I don’t feel like messing with, I usually take it to Berts on Folly Rd.
What’s going on with your truck?
Narcosis
Thanks Narc- that would be a hike for me as I’m in the Park Circle area. I’d do more work myself if I had a place or time to work on her. How bad is changing out a distributor? cap & rotor?
If you ain’t retie’n, you aint try’n!
“it don’t pay to think too much on things you’ve left behind”- townes van zandt
quote:If it's on a 350,should take about 30min.including a beer break.
Originally posted by fishnjimThanks Narc- that would be a hike for me as I’m in the Park Circle area. I’d do more work myself if I had a place or time to work on her. How bad is changing out a distributor? cap & rotor?
If you ain’t retie’n, you aint try’n!
“it don’t pay to think too much on things you’ve left behind”- townes van zandt
Double D.
Just take care to make darn sure you’re at top dead center. Ask me how I know 
it is easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission
14’’ McKee/30 'rude
“Shenanigans”
I agree with Double D. I haven’t done it on my truck as they did it with the engine replacement. I have done it on other American vehicles. If you don’t have a Haynes or Chilton’s manual just make sure to map out where your wires go. I usually just make a quick sketch of which wire goes to which plug. The biggest problem that I ever had was changing one on my 95 dodge van. One of the screws holding the cap down broke off as I was unscrewing it. I very carefully drilled it out, taking care not to drill through the valve cover, and placed a very small bolt in place of the screw. It is very uncommon for that to happen though. It’s a one beer job for sure. Might consider doing your plugs at the same time. Then it might be a two beer job.
Narcosis
Thanks guys! I pulled the youtube and looked under the hood… I think I can handle this. I was worried that it may be some newaged mularky. I’ve done this sort of thing on a way older engine with my pops years ago. The more I think about it the more I feel this has to be the problem. Too intermitant otherwise.
It really acts up when its wet/rainy to the point of no-start (sunday). Yesterday afternoon I could have put her in the quarter mile. Go figure… good thing is she don’t float so hopefully it’s not going to cost me too much-
If you ain’t retie’n, you aint try’n!
“it don’t pay to think too much on things you’ve left behind”- townes van zandt
Sounds like moisture is getting in somewhere to make a misfire/skip.
Double D.
Do they even have Distributor caps anymore:question:
quote:The automakers are going to coil packs instead of distributors,doesn't make a whole lot of sense,only means that folks have to pay more for parts.
Originally posted by EasyDo they even have Distributor caps anymore:question:
Double D.
fishnjim
I built a 600hp stroker motor out of the same model motor you have. Had the same issues you have I replace the distributor cap with an MSD ignition brass terminal cap and a MSD ignition brass terminal rotor button and a set of MSD 8.8mm wires and now I have no problems.it is nothing to change just be sure not to drop the two little torqs screws that hold the distributor cap on.
quote:
Originally posted by EasyDo they even have Distributor caps anymore:question:
Not many… if any nowadays. All gone to cam and crank sensors. Much more accurate and trouble free.
Kind of like back in the day of swapping from points to an electronic distributor. Wonder how many people still remember how to set point gap and dwell? Best move I made was converting my old 8N tractor from points to an electronic system.
Fred, don’t forget that condenser:wink: Rough set for the points, is the back cover of a pack of matches. Use the striker on the match pack to clean the points up and you were good to go! Want to find out which plug wasn’t firing? Open the hood in a dark garage and watch which plug wire has the most spark running down the outside of it[:0] That’s when you could work on a motor:smiley:
quote:
Originally posted by EasyFred, don’t forget that condenser:wink: Rough set for the points, is the back cover of a pack of matches. Use the striker on the match pack to clean the points up and you were good to go! Want to find out which plug wasn’t firing? Open the hood in a dark garage and watch which plug wire has the most spark running down the outside of it[:0] That’s when you could work on a motor:smiley:
Yep, and that was when you asked how many miles? oh… about 80,000. Dang dude about time for a rebuild. Remember about a quart every 500 miles? that wasn’t bad during those times. Modern lubricants and much more precise machining has come a long way. Hell a used vehicle with 200,000 miles can bring a premium price… go figure:question:
Heck, I ran 1 that used/leaked so much oil I used to dump that re-refined oil in it and use a can of STP to get the pressure up.
wound up being worn out distributor cap/rotor. I had some bad wires and worn out plugs too. I’ve never changed them (original 1998’s) and they chafed on the valve cover creating a short; ergo misfires. New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor and I’m back up! Got to love a 350!
If you ain’t retie’n, you aint try’n!
“it don’t pay to think too much on things you’ve left behind”- townes van zandt
fishnjim, next time something like that happens open the hood on a dark night and look at the motor. Electric follows the path of least resistance. If it can get to a ground through a crack or cut in a wire instead of having to jump the gap on a plug that’s where it will go. Sometimes, you’ll get a really nice light show [:0]
quote:
Wonder how many people still remember how to set point gap and dwell?
That was back when even I could fix a car Like Easy said, clean them with a match book striker, bring #1 to TDC, set the gap with the matchbook cover. Hook up a timing light, twist the distributor until it was right, good to go. Had to usually do that every few months:smiley: Dwell required a little meter my dad made from a Heathkit kit. I don’t even know what I’m looking at under the hood of most cars now, but they sure run longer without troubles.
quote:
Heck, I ran 1 that used/leaked so much oil I used to dump that re-refined oil in it and use a can of STP to get the pressure up
I’ve had a couple like that, fill them up with oil and check the gas.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
quote:We used to do that while we were doing the 12oz curles,just to watch the sparks.:smiley:
Originally posted by Easyfishnjim, next time something like that happens open the hood on a dark night and look at the motor. Electric follows the path of least resistance. If it can get to a ground through a crack or cut in a wire instead of having to jump the gap on a plug that’s where it will go. Sometimes, you’ll get a really nice light show [:0]
Double D.