Ive got a question about my 2000 merc saltwater series.
The overheating alarm started going off yesterday. Not long after I hit a sandbar. It only seems to sound when I am over 4000 rpms, so I limped around for the rest of the day. It is peeing, but doesnt seem to be as strong as usual.
Im figuring that I need to check the impeller, and the water pump maybe? Am I on the right track? Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Ok, decided to remove impeller since I didnt get any responses to see if it is the problem. I got all 5 of the nuts off and the foot lowered about 1". Its stuck. I have used a 2x6 and hammer and actually cracked the case and still can not get if off. I imagine that there is sand or corrosion that has jammed into the hole and locking the bolt up. the front of the foot is loose and seems to move freely, its just the rear bolt by the propeller.
Any ideas on what I should do to get the last bolt out so that I can remove the foot?
19’6" Key West Bayreef
Been awhile since I had one of those motors, but did you remove the bolt behind the steering trim tab (just above the prop)? Also, you may just need to remove the t-stats and make sure they aren’t clogged with sand and debris.
I have added a picture. As you can see, I have separated the foot appx 1". The left side is loose and I can move it up and down freely about 1/4" or so. The right side, the single bolt is tight. Can I cut this bolt? How hard is is to install a new one? I believe that corrosion has slipped into the hole and is binding with the threads and locking up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
19’6" Key West Bayreef
“If it were me”, I’d spray PB Blaster around the frozen bolt. Leave it overnight, see if that helps to loosen it up to where it will break free. Sure, you can cut the bolt off, but then you’ll be faced with the fun task of possibly drilling it out and re-tapping the hole.
Jen-n-tonic has the right idea. Let it soak with penetrating oil.
I am faceing a simular problem. Started today trying to remove the lower unit on my 150 and the front bolt has corrosion around it where it passes through the aluminum housing. Like yours, it is seized. I have it soaking with penetrating oil overnight and I will try again tomorrow.
Don’t cut the bolt. That will just give you something else to repair.
thanks guys. i tried wd40 last night but may pick up something a little better. RDW - let me know if you get it please so that I know it works.
19’6" Key West Bayreef
WD40 only gives you false hope for something like this. Apply PB Blaster and then a few taps on the bolt every few hours (put a nut on the bolt so you don’t damamge the threads). You may be able to heat it with a propane torch to help break loose some of the corrosion and repeat the PB Blaster. Just be patient, you don’t want to be drilling and tapping a new bolt hole if you don’t need to.
quote:That's funny, but somewhat true. PB-blaster or AeroKroil is probably the best. I am hoping to not have to use the torch but it is a option also.
WD40 only gives you false hope for something like this
I’m having the same issue after hitting the sand bar. However, I’ve had issues with the water pump ever since I’ve replace the lower unit with a SEI aftermarket unit. After I hit the sandbar and she started overheating, I got pissed and just left it with the mechanic to let him fight the lower unit. Very good point about the t-stats…didn’t think about that. Of course, now the cheap side of me wishes it was here so I could just fix it myself.
Ok, I made it back to the motor after I had to abandon it last week.
I got the lower unit off but it was tough.
I had to use a porta-power to press the bolt until it finally gave up and came out. Soaked the bolt with PB Blaster for about an hour and then applied the pressure.
The front bolt was completely corroded.
Got everything cleaned up, lubed up, and new water-pump installed.
Nice job! Now everyone on this site will be calling you to borrow the Porta-Power. Sweet tool!