MOJO '78 Mako 25 Rebuild - Got my Mojo workin

new gunnel cap core strips (cockpit area)


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Looking good man!! Glad u getting back on it.

2000 2220 KeyWest CC 225ox66 “Drippin Wet”


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Very nice work :sunglasses:

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair

looking good. looking forward to seeing more progress

Cliff
2006 pioneer 197 SF 150 4s

Phin
Is that epoxy you used on the hull joint connection? If so why? I have always been told to use 4200 and screw the hull together so this way if you have to open it up it is not that difficult? Looks good.

Chad
Cobia 256 Express
Pulled by a Dodge Ram 3500

quote:
Originally posted by cobia256

Phin
Is that epoxy you used on the hull joint connection? If so why? I have always been told to use 4200 and screw the hull together so this way if you have to open it up it is not that difficult? Looks good.

Chad
Cobia 256 Express
Pulled by a Dodge Ram 3500


It is methacrylate. I don’t want that joint to ever open!

Here is more info on what methacrylate is
http://www.compositesworld.com/articles/a-guide-to-selection-of-methacrylate-urethane-and-epoxy-adhesives


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“I don’t want that joint to ever open”
good plan
i have seen boats sink in rough seas from taking on water that a bilgepump couldnt keep up with from that joint opening up.

what is clear lexan being used for?
do you plan on glassing the cat into the hull somewhere?

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Phin: Thanks for the info. Reason I asked is I was getting water in my bilge and could not figure it out and it was the caulk in the joint went bad and was allowing water to get in. My manufacture said to use 4200 so the hull was removable, and that it happens all the time. Think I may have to look in to doing this to my boat. Another question. My boats joints are caulked and screwed. If I use your method on my hull could I remove the old caulk and just add the epoxy or would I have to also remover the screws?

Chris: This is the very reason I added a second bilge pump to my boat.

Chad
Cobia 256 Express
Pulled by a Dodge Ram 3500

Cobia, methacrylate is not epoxy. I would not use epoxy on that joint. Epoxy has almost no elongation and will crack there over time. Also, to get a good bond with epoxy you’ve got to sand and clean the two surfaces you’re trying to bond together, and doing that is difficult in this joint without fully opening it up. If you are able to open up this joint that much, then you have even more serious problems inside your structure as it hasn’t been bonded together well at all at the factory.
Methacrylate chemically etches into whatever it’s put on, and it will dissolve contaminants like all the dirt and salt that’re inside that joint most likely.

Google Plexus methacrylate to see some products. Plexus is the big brand used in the marine industry.

The better boat manufacturers use this stuff instead of joining putty in some areas of boats. It is also used by dentists, nail salons, and windshield crack repair! Different formulas, but it’s the same stuff. The key characteristic is its ability to chemically etch into the materials being bonded.

My rubrail originally had a bead of silicone about 1/4" wide (still pretty high inside the joint) and aluminum rivets. I drilled out all the rivets and ground off any screws that had broken and were still in the hull. That let me open the joint enough to push methacrylate inside it. The rub rail has been removed and screwed back on so many times that the area looks like swiss cheese in some places. I have filled all those holes with methacrylate too.

I would do 5200 at the very least on this joint. Like I said, you absolutely do not want it to ever separate. It’ll sink the boat like Chris said. Many documented examples…

Chris, the lexan is being pushed against the cockpit liner there while I glass in two strips to plug holes that were cut out by someone last year early on in the project. The liner has a slight bulge inboard on both sides from where they filled the gunnels with foam and it expanded at the factory (or from the foam in there being wet for s

Phin,

When you go to install the rub rail are you going to drill holes in the cap, seal, then screw the rubrail on.  Or did you have something else in mind that would leave no penetrations into cap?  
I have been considering sealing the cap onto my little project as well, but have not gotten that far.

I am going to screw in the rubrail but also thru-bolt the rubrail with nyloc nuts where I can access the back.


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Is there an online source for methacrylate in small quantities? Any other ideas?

Phin thanks for the info. I just got done redoing my seal with 5200 back in October. I think it will hold till next winter then I will be using the methacrylate and doing this right. Man when I bought a boat I thought I knew a lot, but man I had no clue. Thanks for the info. Hope you get fishing soon. If you need a ride some time my offer is always open.

Chad
Cobia 256 Express
Pulled by a Dodge Ram 3500

Thanks, Cobia.

EP, look at Jamestown distributors.
I used about 12oz, but I was filling the holes too.


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New work plan.

encapsulate stringer height addition/deck mounting beams with glass
glass in old rod tube holes midships
fill cockpit gunnels with foam
glass cockpit gunnel interior mid-shelves/braces
tab in aft gunnel-hull side bulkheads

drill for 1.5" cockpit fish box drain fittings
final fill and fair of fish box interiors
two coats of epoxy on fish box interiors
re-mask fish box interiors

methacrylate in new gunnel cap core strips
bring up gunnel caps to level with glass & putty

glass in deck hatch gutter drain lines
dry fit/adjust deck
methacrylate height addition planks to stringers

install fuel lines
install bonding ground to fuel tank

regelcoat running surface

methacrylate deck into boat
mask deck hatch gutter rings
glass deck topside layers
floodcoat deck topside

secure fwd plumbing and conduits
foam fill below deck fwd and midships
methacrylate console base to old deck underside
fill console base-deck joint with putty
design console interior drain area with outlet Teeed into anchor locker drain line
glass console base interior to stringers and bulkhead

Complete console front redesign- suspended seat platform, folding?
Methacrylate console to console base/deck
putty console-deck joint
glass console deck joint
grind high spots during partial cure
flood coat console-deck joint

transom, livewell & platform build

fwd livewell and drain installation
fwd seating recore/repair
midships gunnel repair


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