Was wondering if any of you have tried these to give more negative trim. If so, what brand. My boat needs to be running at least in the mid 30’s to plane off and sometimes the weather says otherwise. I was told the added negative trim would give me a slow planing speed.
I just cleaned out my barn and took a set to the recicle yard! Check your trim swing and make sure it does not have any obstructions to make it not go all the way to the transom. Had a friend buy a new boat that would not get on plane well and found out it had a shipping bracket on it
Do you have trim tabs currently?
It does have big tabs on it already, but with tabs all the way down, she still seems to run a little bow high. Day in and day out she runs great, but would really be nice to get the bow down on those rough days.
28 WA Hydra Sport
Twin 225 4 stoke Yammies
“Fin Loco”
They had to put them on my old Mako 262 when I went to 4 strokes. It helped get the bow down and the slight porpoising out.
Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
what size prop are you running?
You might want to try a jacking plate it will give you negative trim.
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Boatpoor, not sure what prop is on it, but I was also told that if I went to a 4 blade prop it would help. Flat-out, I am not sure that they make a jack plate for a twin engine application.
Thanks for your input.
28 WA Hydra Sport
Twin 225 4 stoke Yammies
“Fin Loco”
quote:
Originally posted by Reel ExcitementBoatpoor, not sure what prop is on it, but I was also told that if I went to a 4 blade prop it would help. Flat-out, I am not sure that they make a jack plate for a twin engine application. Thanks for your input.
28 WA Hydra Sport
Twin 225 4 stoke Yammies
“Fin Loco”
(2) at less than $100.00 ea help? The one in this link is on Ebay. “Happy Bob” may be a good source for a match to it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/outboard-transom-JACK-PLATES-/151256075409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2337908c91
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I owned a smaller version of that boat ( 2200 WA ) and it too rode a little bow high, I think some of it is just the nature of the beast. Im probably going to tell you things you might already know or have checked but here it goes. Check the motor height. Of the 20 or so boats Ive owned just about everyone of them were too low.Your manuals will tell you the correct height it should be from the bottom of the hull to the cavitation plate.
Prop sized to maximum rated RPM. You could go one size smaller but you would risk over revving and reduced fuel mileage so I wouldnt do it. The motor wedges you mentioned might be a good try, I would stay away from jack plates on that boat.The only ones that would work are expensive and the offset ones also put the motor further away from the transom shifting the weight further back.On one boat I had to shift the fuel tank forward to get it to ride properly at lower RPM s after installing the plate I would check the motor height first , other than that its try the wedges and then bigger trim tabs.
Thanks for all the input. After talking to someone on another thread that has the same boat, decided to try the wedges. I will post the results in a few weeks.
28 WA Hydra Sport
Twin 225 4 stoke Yammies
“Fin Loco”
I had a 25’ with twin 225 that would not plane at less tan 25 mph, wet to 4 pith props and they realy made the difference and would stay on plane at 17 mph. Great in a bad head sea! good luck with the wedges. Might try a machine shop to make some.