Nav Lights not working

2003 Key West 1720CC

When I flip the switch, the anchor light comes on, but the Nav lights do not. So I pulled out my voltmeter, switched to ohms, and tested my bulbs. They were good (indicated by a “beep” on the audible option). Separated the light socket and wires from the junction to the main lead wires, put the bulb in the light socket and tested the wires, “beeeeep”. Good there. Disconnected the lights again. Switched the dial to check voltage with the switch on and I’m reading about 11.1 volts. So a little drop from the 12v battery probably due to the length of the thin wire. But should be enough to power a small bulb, even if dim. But when I hook the wires of just one bulb to the lead wires, no light. What’s wrong?

If it’s any help, the lights went out when I installed the trolling motor in May. Accessed the through bolts via the nav light hole. When I realized the lights weren’t working, I opened the light to see if I accidentally disconnected something when installing the t-motor, and upon jiggling the wires, the lights flickered on and then off. Haven’t come on since. But the bulbs are not blown. Help.

KeyWest 1720cc 90 Ymha
www.FishCFA.org

C, are they solidered wires or some kind of push together connector?
If connector check for corrosion.
Also check to see if you didn’t accedently nick one with the drill when you installed the T-motor. Check the power inside the socket of the light with your meter.
good luck.
Jeff

also, you could be registering enough voltage to read on the metter, but not enough AMPS to power to light

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org

I’ve had that happen ^^ (ChrisV’s comment)
Check contacts for corrosion…


2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”

Yep, just because you have continuity and reasonable voltage doesn’t mean they should work…not enough current. Corrosion, bad connections, broken wires where just a few strands are left connected, etc… Sometimes it is easiest just to pull a new length of tin plated marine duplex wire if the existing stuff is old, corroded (black when stripped back), and brittle.

Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”
Native Manta Ray 14

i would hate to overlook something simple, and couldn’t tell from the original post, but your anchor light and nav lights shouldn’t be on at the same time, is it a 3-way switch?

Full Pull Charters
Captain Ed Keelin
843-543-5126
www.fullpullsportfishing.com

quote:
Originally posted by Full Pull

i would hate to overlook something simple, and couldn’t tell from the original post, but your anchor light and nav lights shouldn’t be on at the same time, is it a 3-way switch?

Full Pull Charters
Captain Ed Keelin
843-543-5126
www.fullpullsportfishing.com


On most smaller boats the anchor light also serves as the “all around” white light. Switch positions should be:

  1. All off
  2. Red and green lights and white all around light (this is for running at night).
  3. Just the white light (this is for anchoring at night).

Note #2 and #3 can be reversed, it doesn’t matter.

Ron
2000 Camano Troll
North Charleston, SC

Thanks for your responses. Sorry for delay.

Yes, it is a 3-way rocker switch (off, anchor only, anchor/nav).
Yes, connectors. And yes, the wire is black when the insulation is stripped away. So I guess I’m gonna have to pull new wire.

KeyWest 1720cc 90 Ymha
www.FishCFA.org