Wife wants a pair of these hung under some upper cabinets mounted on the wall at work. http://www.lowes.com/pd_382476-66150-29E+WCUBE30_0__?productId=3599608&Ntt=kitchen+cabinet+refacing+kit&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dkitchen%2Bcabinet%2Brefacing%2Bkit&facetInfo=
Any ideas for how to attach these so that the connection isn’t visible? Won’t have to hold a ton of weight, but will get constant use from employees pulling storage bins in and out.
is the back sturdy enough to hold it up?
i would put screws through the back into wall studs - cabinet is 30" long so you would get 2 wall studs at least
Thought about that but back is a thin piece of veneer wood and I’m not sure i could get a drill all the way back in there anyway. Came in pre assembled so those little dividers are in the way.
KeyWest15
Calculate the screw length down from inside the upper cabinet floor in to the dividers of the cubby
Woodfloats?
Thought of that too…don’t think they are wide enough. Thought of putting screws through the top of the shelf into the face frame of the upper cabinet. That would support the front of the shelf and then trying to put some through the floor of the upper cabinet into the top of the shelf near the rear where they wouldn’t show.
KeyWest15
I am a cabinet maker, maybe I can help. If you can, take a pic of the cabinets you want them mounted to and I can give you my email address, you can email me the pics and I can help you from there.
If the wall cabinets are flat (flush) across the bottom, then a number of 1 1/4" screws shot down from the top down (going through the bottom of the wall cabinets, covered with a “fast cap” or cabinet liner paper) will hold it in there. I would still personally shoot a 2-3" screw into each stud behind the cubby-hole shelf through the 1/4" back. HOWEVER I would not sink the screws deep through the 1/4". I’d leave the heads sticking out a little, meaning you still have some good sheer strength without the screws pulling through.
I know there won’t be a lot of weight in these, they are only 5" cubes. But if it’s worth doing, it’s worth over-doing lol.
“Sire, it belongs in truth to the Church of God, in whose name I speak, to endure blows and not to inflict them. But it will also please your Majesty to remember that she is an anvil that has worn out many hammers.”…Theodore Beza
Contact cement will hold a ton of weight and abuse if put on correctly , ie clean and sanded surfaces or a good quality wood glue like Tightbond 3 held in place with temp wood struts until dry . From an old woodworker ,me.
Here are the upper cabinets. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=310541-66150-29A+W3030&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3182513&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
I’ll try to get some pictures of their bases this weekend, but they are standard lowes cabinets…nothing fancy.
KeyWest15
Yeah I can’t tell by the pic from Lowes if the bottoms are flush or not (ie, all in plane and flat so that you can mate up another surface to it). They probably aren’t.
If they aren’t flush, I’d suggest you build it out a little in the places you want to screw the cubby cabinets up into. You don’t have to fill in the entire bottom/underside of your whole wall cabinet, but just a 2" strip every 12" or so should do it for you. Then, pre-drill some 1/8" holes through these bottom strips, up through the bottom of your wall cabinet as pilot holes. Put the cubby hole cabinet up under it (with help, or 2X4’s as stiff legs) and shoot the screws down from the inside of your wall cabinet. Make sure they “gain purchase” with their threads and that they are long enough to give you the bite you will want.
“Sire, it belongs in truth to the Church of God, in whose name I speak, to endure blows and not to inflict them. But it will also please your Majesty to remember that she is an anvil that has worn out many hammers.”…Theodore Beza