I have a 2005 yamaha 4 stroke 25hp tiller and we were having problems with it starting (still am)… and so we checked the oil and noticed it was low. I have only had the boat for less than a year and havent changed the oil in a while, so i went to the local marina and asked what oil to use. He picked out a Havoline 10w-30 motor oil, and said that was the stuff. We then put it in the engine and after doing it a buddy of mine told me that we shouldnt have done that. So my question is do i need to pump this stuff out asap or is it ok? The boat hasnt run with this oil in. The oil wasnt the problem, so the next thing to check is the spark plug i guess.
I discussed this very topic with the Maintenance Mgr at Tailwalker Marine when I purchased my 150 hp Yamaha 4 years ago…he told me that since outboards run at substantially higher rpm’s than a automobile motor and are under more load all the time, that automobile oil WILL NOT do the job of marine 4 cycle oil. Auto oil will significantly lower the life of an outboard but will not significantly present any problems initally. Marine 4 cycle oil has more additives to lub the motor more substantially than regular car oil. My first reaction to this info was,“sure you just want me to buy more expensive motor oil” that is until an independent outboard mechanic friend of mine told me the same thing. Since then I use nothing but the recommended 10W40 4 cycle Yamaha oil and I’ve got some 800 hours on my motor with no problems…hope this helps.
Found on yamahaoutboards.com: May I use Automotive Oils in my four-stroke Yamaha Outboard?
No. Automotive oils are not designed for the operating conditions four-stroke outboard motors face, particularly moisture, cooler operating temperatures, and extended full-throttle operation under load. Oils for your car do not contain, for example, sufficient quantities of the superior rust and corrosion-resistant additives found in quality FC-W oil. Oil with the FC-W rating from the NMMA has been specifically formulated for the tough marine environment. Yamalube 4-M FC-W meets or exceeds all FC-W requirements.
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I was interested in this question and asked a friend who has a Yamaha 4 Stroke with 2000 hours on it. He said other than the Yamaha oil that was in it when he bought it new, his motor has never had anything but Castrol or Penzoil (Non synthetic or Non Blend), whichever he could get cheaper
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Zinc/phosphate (zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate or ZDDP), boron (boron nitride), and molybdenum (organic trinuclear molybdenum) all work together as boundary lubricants. Under high temperature and pressure, they form a very hard coating on metal parts and provide protection at startup and under operating condition where the oil film becomes too thin. Moly and BN also reduce friction.
The ratio of these additives has to be carefully balanced for optimal results. But any oil that is formulated with all 3 is a high performance oil that is designed for racing or flat tappet engines.
Calcium (as calcium hydroxide) is one of the bases that are used to form salts any of several organic acids that are used as detergents in motor oil. Some formulations use magnesium or sodium instead of calcium. While these metals are not themselves detergents, they indicate the level of detergent in the oil. Anything over 2000 ppm indicates an oil that is formulated to hold up for a long time.
By this criteria, Yamalube 4M is a very robust oil.
Diesel oils have been used for a long time with good results in marine inboard engines. Most all should be able to meet most if not all of the FC-W test criteria for outboard oil. But just like the newer automotive oils, the latest versions of diesel oils are also showing up with reduced zinc and phosphate content in order to meet new emission standards. The latest diesel oils also have higher levels of ashless detergents in order to keep soot particles in suspension. These don’t show up in oil analysis because they don’t contain metals. They don’t provide much value for gasoline engines and they reduce the amount of some other additives that can be used in the oil because of solubility issues. So I’m starting to be less sure of the newer diesel oils for outboards.
The point is that automotive and diesel oils are designed for different applications than 4 stroke outboards. Using them will not result in immediate engine problems. But they might well reduce the lifeti
I believe imperial oils/Esso makes Yamma Lube, Mobile makes Honda’s, Cat’s, + lot’s more that different companies put there name on.
Stick with the factories recommended viscosity and a brand name synthetic and you’ll be fine.
Imagine a barrel filled with tennis, basket,football, and baseballs. That’s the molecular make up of conventional oil, now imagine that same barrel with nothing but ping-pong balls… that’s synthetic oil’s molecular make up… uniform with less friction.
Biggest difference in diesel rated oils are additives to suspend soot and usually a bit more zinc, plenty good for a gas engine.
Found it.An OEM can not specify their engine oil as the only oil for use in their engine or the warranty is voided. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 explains.
Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.
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Went to bat for a friend that failed a 6.0 vortec engine, dealer claimed he did not use correct oil. No matter the Brand as long as it meets factory specs and is changed at proper intervals which could be hard to prove if you do it yourself, but would not hold up in court if you had records of oil purchased.
Here’s a tid bit. Kenworth will warranty transmission and differentials for 750,000 miles if you use synthetic oil but only 500,000 miles if conventional oil is used… or did in the past. Must be something to synthetic lubricants.
Correct Sir. Yamaha’s warranty will honor any oil as long as it meets factory specs. is changed every 100 hours, and you have records of oil purchased. But why all the hassle over a couple of bucks per oil change, when you know you’re using the factory recommended oil?
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My engine totally blew up the second I put non-Yamaha oil in it. Seriously, you guys need to go look a the BITOG forum about oils. Get a good synthetic and a good filter and you’ll be fine. The filter is more important than the oil. The NMMA is just trying to make some money with their certification.
The original question was will the Havoline 10w-30 motor oil added to his motor hurt anything. The answer is, of course not. You have also established that manufacturers have no legal recourse against using non OEM Oils. If there were regular catastrophic engine failures from using Non OEM Lubricants, this probably wouldnt be the case, would it?
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And if non marine OEM oil is bad for your outboard, will marine grade oil hurt an auto engine?
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And if non marine OEM oil is bad for your outboard, will marine grade oil hurt an auto engine?
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I have weekly arguments over recommended lubricants from transmission, Hydrualic, engine and gear boxes to include fire retardant and biodegradable lubricants. Each manufacture will say they have the best. Cold hard facts are all your base stocks come from the same place, just the trademarked additives and amounts change things. You rarely see an oil related failure in any component unless it was way past service in our present times.
I do agree with cataddict on the quality filter issue. I have seen hard test data on inferior filters but never on lubricants, other than coking issues in turbos using conventional oils during “hot” shut downs.
The original question was will the Havoline 10w-30 motor oil added to his motor hurt anything. The answer is, of course not. You have also established that manufacturers have no legal recourse against using non OEM Oils. If there were regular catastrophic engine failures from using Non OEM Lubricants, this probably wouldnt be the case, would it?
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And if non marine OEM oil is bad for your outboard, will marine grade oil hurt an auto engine?
With rates so low, now may be the perfect time to refinance or purchase your dream home. If you are thinking about home financing give me a ring!</font id=“blue”>
Nope, 4M F-CW is far superior to conventional automotive motor oil. And if you don’t believe me, ask Hoppy while you’re out deep holing…By the way, how’s his back?
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