Hi first post to forum been reading for a year 1/2 now. Finally got a fishing boat… key west 176 bay reef with 115 Yammi 4S. Looking to do some inshore river/creek/flats fishing for the first time ever. Looking at getting some anchor pins for shallow water fishing…but is a trolling motor a necessity to fish inshore?
no.
yes, if you can afford it.would you buy a bass boat without a trolling motor?
I don’t have one but I fish with a buddy that has a Minn Kota iPilot. Man that thing is sweet. You can spot lock it so you stay in one place (no anchoring) or you can work a grassline. So no, not necessary but he will tell you, it has improve his fishing. It is definitely on my list of “wants”.
“Apathy is the Glove in Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
Necessary to fish?
No.
Will it open you up to more ways to fish and target specific species?
Yes.
If you are just starting out, then its not 100% neccessary. Learn areas, fish as many as you can, and over time you’ll see certain patterns develop. Once you get those patterns figured out, then the trolling motor helps a lot. For example, you usually catch fish somewhere on this once particular bank and that bank is 1/4 mile long. Well, with a trolling motor, you can start at one end and slowly work your way up until you find the schools of fish. Drop the anchor quitely and work the school from there instead of letting them come to you at your anchored up spot.
To keep it simple, cheaper, lighter, less equipment on your boat: nope. Buy or make a shallow water anchor such as a Stick It.
I went 8+ years without one and got really good at knowing where the fish will be and being there waiting for them. Now that I have a trolling motor I spend more time looking for fish like 23Sailfish says instead of letting them come to me. I don’t neccesarily catch more wih the trolling motor because I am impatient and move around a lot more. However, I would not give it up and has greatly increased the number of good spots I have being able to cover more water.
Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC “JB3”
Native Manta Ray 14
Thanks so much gentlemen. The trolling motor is on my add to list at some point and time. My thoughts and help me to see if this is good wisdom; buy two stick it anchor pins to anchor in shallow water, learn the areas to fish and gain some experience…while saving up to eventually get a riptide i pilot i think it what it’s called…
Agreed with the above. Personally I find a trolling motor almost a necessity because I prefer to (at least pretend to) chase fish down. Not that it’s done me any good this season so far.
The I-pilot is a pretty schnazzy machine. However, keep in mind that you can get a cheapo used one off Craigslist, or if you buy one, just get a cheap freshwater version-- just make sure it’s variable speed. The 5-speed motors I believe to be really obsolete at this point— they typically only cost a little more (in the whole scheme of things). If you get a freshwater version, a $5 zinc anode (available for them all) and a good washing after every trip will do you for a long time. This is what I do.
“Sire, it belongs in truth to the Church of God, in whose name I speak, to endure blows and not to inflict them. But it will also please your Majesty to remember that she is an anvil that has worn out many hammers.”…Theodore Beza
It really depends how you want to fish. If you just want to chunk bait, then you don’t need one. If you want to fish artificials, then you really do.
TM is a must-have, IMO. Don’t under-spec it. Get one with some booty to it and the highest amp-hour batteries you can find in the 27-31 size range.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance Agency, Inc.
https://stricklandmarine.net
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
amen
A trolling motor has been a transforming thing for me. I will never inshore fish without one again. It depends on what kind of fishing you plan to do. You can anchor and fish cut bait, but to me the best way to fish is to work an entire bank, casting to structure. I like to fish only artificial baits, so that is really the only way to elevate your “game” to the next level IMO. If you can afford it, I would recommend you get one.
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com | www.summervillesaltwateranglers.com
I am learning mine but i already like it.if i break down i can still move until i kill the batteries.
Stonoman
What everybody said to the affirmative. When anchored you are stagnant, learning little to nothing about the water. Standing up in the front of the boat, chunking and winding, you can pick up on little subtle deals of structure, which may only show themselves for a short time, due to our relatively huge tidal differentials.
These are Rick Clunn’s (The Master) spots within a spot and can pay off for the rest of your life. Ones a hundred people can see you fish with a trolling motor and never figure it out. Anchored on a spot your’re pretty much an open book. I enjoy zipping down the bank, throwing a Super Spook on 50# braid so much, I really don’t have to be catching fish to attain that meditative state…well, almost. Get the trolling motor and get a 24 volt so you can buck the tides, which is the direction to fish, and not run out of juice. Bob
“Have you Tricked a Trout today?” TroutTrick
Bob Sanders
www.trouttrick.com
www.fishingwithbob.com
www.southcarolinalandonline.com
bob@fishingwithbob.com
803-300-2780
I am humbled by your wisdom…all of you. So my question: I have a Key west 176 bay reef…what size thrust, shaft, and amps/hour, and can you mount yourself…want a quick connect because of the area we live in (Orangeburg County).
Probably a minnkota riptide 70 or 80 lbs thrust, 24V (2 batteries). Whatever control is in your budget. Tiller is fine, or foot control, remote control or iPilot. Minnkota sells a quick release puck. I have one. Super easy to remove the TM with it.
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com | www.summervillesaltwateranglers.com
I have the MG Great White with the 62" shaft and 82# thrust on my 177 Scout, and it’s a perfect setup. Having a longer shaft, even if some say it’s not necessary for the particular boat, keeps the controls up high where you don’t have to bend over all day when turning the stick. Having a little more thrust than necessary beats having just not quite enough by a mile–especially if you plan to fish current.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance Agency, Inc.
https://stricklandmarine.net
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
P.S. I have an MG and an MK and have had a couple of each brand over the years. The MK is very nice, but the MG has a smaller prop and motor/foot body, allowing a shallower draft, and the MG motor itself is noticably quieter to my ear as the MK makes a fairly loud hum. With that being said, many swear by the Minn Kota based on longevity and build quality, but I beat the dog mess out of mine, and I find them both to be fine products. The only Motor Guide I’ve ever had any real problem with was a digital foot-pedal model. I avoid those. The same goes with Minn Kota (no problems with the stick version), with the exception of a shaft that exploded when I hit an oyster bed under TM power. Maybe it was just a bad run on the shafts.
Whichever one you get, I recommend the manual stick control. They’re also pretty easy to fix if you do have problems. I had no problem doing a DIY refurb on my MG a year or so ago with OEM parts.
The manual foot control is fine IF you are going to use a bass seat. Otherwise, you may end up in the water. So, stick with the tiller if you’re going to be standing so you can heep both feet planted.
Anyway, that’s just my 2 cents from having used TM’s for 20-some years. Others may have differing opinions or experiences.
Finally, when you rig it up, make sure you don’t undersize the wire or the batteries. Also, go the distance in putting a breaker in line. For batteries, I like regular marine deep-cycle batteries over the expensive AGM’s or gels. The former have higher amp-hour and r-min capacities, yielding a longer run time in any given day. The latter probably last longer and take more of a beating.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance Agency, Inc.
https://stricklandmarine.net
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
quote:
Originally posted by Redfish_mattAgreed with the above. Personally I find a trolling motor almost a necessity because I prefer to (at least pretend to) chase fish down. Not that it’s done me any good this season so far.
The I-pilot is a pretty schnazzy machine. However, keep in mind that you can get a cheapo used one off Craigslist, or if you buy one, just get a cheap freshwater version-- just make sure it’s variable speed. The 5-speed motors I believe to be really obsolete at this point— they typically only cost a little more (in the whole scheme of things). If you get a freshwater version, a $5 zinc anode (available for them all) and a good washing after every trip will do you for a long time. This is what I do.
Matt, how long has that fresh water motor been going for you? My general experience with fresh water motors in the salt has not been good!
DD
Annoy a Liberal, Work Hard and Be Happy!