On plane issue w/ SeaArk

Hi guys! Looking for some ■■■■■■■■ on an issue with my SeaArk getting on plane. Apparently I have too much weight in the stern/bilge. My fuel tank is in the bow (internal) but I have batteries and Talon setup in the rear. When it gets to 1/2 tank I start having problems with getting on plane. This only occurs when I have a passenger.

I dont have many options to reduce the weight in stern so I am looking at upgrading the aluminum three prop to SS four blade. I still need to determine the pitch but wanted to see if anyone on the form has had similar issues. Thanks in advance!

That 50 hp might be your problem! Try trim tabs, the 4 blade should help!

It’s a four stoke 50. The SeaArk is rated for 50 too

Mark Ingle
1660 SeaArk w/ 50HP Tohatsu
…Engineered to fish!!!

It’s a four stoke 50. The SeaArk is rated for 50 too

Mark Ingle
1660 SeaArk w/ 50HP Tohatsu
…Engineered to fish!!!

Mark; do you have room/space in bow for one of your batts???

George McDonald
US Navy Seabees,Retired,
MAD, Charleston Chapter
[http://www.militaryappreciationday.org

When you see “Old Glory” waving in the breeze, know that it is the dying breaths of our fallen hero’s that makes it wave.
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Gail unfortunately no. Since I opted for the internal tank. I gave up storage in the bow

Mark Ingle
1660 SeaArk w/ 50HP Tohatsu
…Engineered to fish!!!

Do you have a tac and gps on the motor? 4-blade will definitely give you stern lift. I would recommend calling Marcus at Power Tec and giving him rpms and speeds at 1/4 1/2 and full speed he can then recommend the right prop and you can then call Brooks at Oswald Props and Tops to order. Do you have trim and tilt or is it manual. If it’s manual then try lowering the pin to drop the motor some so the motor is more tucked under. Finally I would do everything possible to move some weight forward including having your passengers sit on cooler or mount a seat forward.

I own a Sea Ark. I have the float pods on the back of mine and it jumps up on a plane. With the tank in the front even batts in the back should not keep it from planing off. Before I did anything I would make sure I was getting sufficient power from my engine and make sure that I had it propped correctly.

I put the smallest Bennet SLT tabs on my 14’ Bentz with the 25hp on it and the made a world of difference. They work so well that I have drilled an additional set of adjustment holes to try to further reduce their effect. They come with 3 pairs of holes. You install in the middle pair. To get more effect, move to forward pair. To get less, move to rear pair. I’m trying to get as little effect as possible and still get good behavior from the hull. So, I drilled a new further rearward pair. Haven’t water tested it, yet, thanks to Dorian.

The only problem that comes to mind would be dissimilar metals (aluminum hull + stainless tabs). Maybe someone makes some kind of plastic tabs that would work. Maybe - https://www.westmarine.com/buy/nauticus--smart-tabs-sx-composite-trim-tabs--P006_189_001_507?recordNum=10

'No idea how they’d hold up.
The Bennet SLTs I have seem to be doing well.


17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25

Contender1 - I did a few runs at the lake yesterday to collect some data for Powertech that I submitted via their online form. I have TnT and all weight has been moved forward as much as possible. Thanks for the ■■■■■■■■ fellas!

Mark Ingle
1660 SeaArk w/ 50HP Tohatsu
…Engineered to fish!!!