Don’t know if any of you ever weigh your boat and trailer out of curiosity or to check compliance with the law?
I have an 18.5 center console that is on the trailer it was bought new from the dealer a few years ago. My single axle trailer is rated for 3500# and the tires are class C load rated for a combined capacity of about 3600#, the fact that my trailer does not have brakes can cause some issues when the extras in the boat and or trailer start adding up. My boat has a trolling motor and 2 12 volt batteries, bimini top, 2 72 quart coolers and a 52 gallon gas tank(that I never need to fill up), and a few extras like radios, etc. With a spare tire mounted on the trailer, to my surprise, the package was +3000# easily.
While I haven’t had any problems with safely stopping, or having blown tires, most of my towing is local and a short distance.
The state law SC 56-5-4850 requires brakes on a trailer if the gross weight exceeds 3000#, or if the gross weight of the trailer and boat exceeds 40% of the towing vehicle’s weight (for a half ton truck that weighs 5500#, the trailer would need brakes if it weighs greater than 2200#.)
There is no way that I could get my boat and trailer to weigh less than 2200#.
Options?
Attempt to get brakes added to my trailer without brakes. Is it practical? At what cost? But it still is near the maximum rating for the axle and tires.
Or
Find another trailer with brakes AND a larger capacity for those extras already on the boat?
Something to think about on your next trailer or boat purchase.
Anyone have a trailer with brakes and +4000# capacity they want to swap or sell?
boatfly, Adding surge brakes to your trailer would be your best bet. You would need to change the tongue, and add drums to the hubs. My guess on cost for parts…$300-$500. Couldn’t guess on the labor though. Surge brakes are worry free and don’t need a controller, they just “surge”. The tongue is the pedal. The harder you stop, the more the brakes are applied. (If you were not familiar with how they worked) I have had the trailer tires skid at hard braking.
I seriously doubt you would ever get stopped for that. It would have to be a state transport police officer with mobile scales. They aren’t usually worried about people pulling boats unless they are huge. They go after the commercial truckers mostly.
Trailer brakes on a boat that size would be more trouble than they are worth.
I have the same setup and problem. I am not worried about compliance but more about safety. I have priced out DIY parts from Northern Tool at $800 but you might find something cheaper online. I can do a good emergency stop as long as I am not above 60 mph. I set my cruise at this speed on trips to Charleston but it does create road rage from other cars. Thought I would mention this as an option for you.
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
That law was for new trailers made after the law went into effect. It does not have anything to do with older trailers. The state does not expect you to upgrade your trailer to be compliant, nor will you ever get ticketed for it.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
You won’t get ticketed but in the event you are in an accident it can and will be a factor if the other person hires one of those billboard lawyers.
Just saying.
218WA Sailfish
The "Penn"sion Plan
I bought a new boat and trailer in 2002! The trailer was duel axel with surge brakes! I took it on a trip to the Outer Banks and blew 2 tires. Once I got back I put the boat and trailer on a truck scale and found that I was way over the weight rating of the tires. Looking some more, I checked the trailer data plate and was overweight for the trailer also. Called the dealer and they made it right with a new trailer. I never checked, as the trailer was supposed to be matched to the boat, according to the trailer manufacture:face_with_head_bandage: Bought a new boat this spring and made sure I had enough trailer under this one! It’s the old saying, You Pay To Learn! I also set my cruise at 60 mph, because I don’t trust trailer tires.
I contacted one of the trailer companies that advertise on craigslist, not a local dealer. They recommended a 4200 lb capacity single axle trailer, no brakes. They said most states didn’t require brakes on single axle trailers or non-commercial trailers, WRONG.
I think I will just completely empty the boat for the long trip and get the rig below 3000, barely. I hate to throw money away for my current trailer that is in great shape, I will keep the speed 60 or less.
Adding brakes is not a problem if you’re willing to come off the hip $400-500…I’ve added disc brakes to 2 trailers and it isn’t hard. Just remove the current coupler, bolt on the new surge coupler, bolt on the calipers to the axle, slide on the disc over the lug nuts, run the brake line(now most are flexible not the old steel tubing)add brake fluid and bleed. Done! Takes about 2-3 hours, and several cold beverages…You can get a brake kit from etrailer.com with free shipping. Order to delivery…4 days…
Fishing is a prefectible art…in which nevertheless, no man is perfect – Gifford Pinchot
Ice Blue Pathfinder 2200
“Kemosabe”
<’}}}><
I towed my boat this morning with all the drivers that cut you off on Ashley Phosphate, I-26 and the detour down Meeting Street (due to an accident on I-26) over to Remley Point. Tired of worrying about an emergency stop. I dropped the rig off at Charleston Trailer this afternoon, surge brake system coupler and brakes added to the trailer, about $725, ready tomorrow. Can’t beat that, excellent business with expertise on trailers.
I think that’s a great deal. Let me know how it goes I cannot find anything at that price in Fort Mill
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
So when you say package, you mean boat and trailer combined? 3000lb total?
Yes, total weight of trailer and boat and everything in the boat as it sits on a scale(disconnected from trailer hitch.)
This is the weight that cannot exceed 3000lb (or 40% of the towing vehicle weight, whichever is less) unless you have trailer brakes.
There are scales on the AFB (next to Aerial Port area) that are free to use, also the Pilot truck stop in Summerville has one that costs about $10.
I would like to add my 2cents worth to the discussion. I have had a few trailers, both with brakes and without. PLEASE make sure you are buying or installing salt water type brakes. That means stainless steel rotors and bronze calipers and stainless backed pads. Normal brakes are a delux pita when used in salt water. I don’t care how much you flush and rinse them after each use. They just will not hold up. It’s not a lot of fun at 05:00 on Saturday morning with rusted and locked brakes on the trailer.
ZX
Those truck scales are divided into sections. If you park your trailer wheels on different sections you can weight the amount each axel is carrying! This will give you an idea if you need to move your boat forward or backward on the trailer to get the load on the tires evened out! You can put just the trailer jack stanchion on the scale to see how much weight is on the tongue/hitch!
Good point on using salt water brakes tanksgt!
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
What a bunch of wimps,brakes and trailer lights are overrated…Yall should just put one of those"Student Driver" signs on the back of your boat and roll…