Last year(after some help here) I had a soil test done and added the suggested fertilizer to the soil. Tree didn’t do to great, but this year it is loaded!!
Appreciate any thoughts on the pics below as it appears I may have another issue. Thanks All.
NN
Those dang caterpillars love a pecan tree. And a cherry tree. Mine have them too. I don’t worry about them.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thanks, Larry.
May have some type of Fungi that will be difficult to defeat in top pic.
Hoping for some good news from some on here.
This tree puts out those big papershell pecans, or used too!!
NN
Sprinkle Sevin dust on those bag worm tents. Do not use any chemical liquid insecticides as it is too hot and you will burn the tree.
.
PROUD YANKEE
Oyster Baron
NMFS = No More Fishing Season
“Back home we got a taxidermy man. He gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brung him”
Pull the Web out with a stick…they get on our pecans and sawtooth at the farm. Won’t kill the tree, but will definitely hinder young trees’ growth. If this tree is fairly mature, I wouldn’t worry about it too much.
First pic looks like scab…good luck with that. I’d lay off fert next go 'round
Looks like you have pecan scab, very common in SC, a stick is the best cure for the bag worms, and the scab can be worsened by improper fertilization. Zinc will help with overall good health of the tree(s).
Zinc nutrition is especially important in pecan production. Zinc deficiency is called rosette. The most common and noticeable symptoms of rosette are bronzing and mottling of leaves; early defoliation; dead twigs in tops of trees; abnormally small nuts; small yellowish, chlorotic leaves; and short, thin twigs growing on older scaffold branches with rosettes of small yellowish-green leaves at the tips.
Scab is the most prevalent and challenging disease not only in South Carolina, but where ever pecans are grown. There is not a year when this disease does not impact each pecan tree to some degree. It typically infects both the leaves and nut shucks (the protective shell or husk around the nut), especially when they are young and actively growing in the early part of the growing season. Leaves are susceptible from bud break until they reach maturity. However, once leaves are full expanded, they are no longer susceptible to pecan scab. Nut shucks are susceptible from nut-set to maturity. At times, it can infect young developing twigs and catkins (male flowers) if conditions are favorable. Overall, this disease is a perennial problem without a simple solution.
Pecan scab is caused by the fungus Cladosporium caryigenum. At first, the fungus forms small, circular, olive-green to black spots on leaves, leaf petioles and outer nut shuck. With time the lesions increase in size and become blackened and sunken in appearance. Lesions crack as the leaves expand.
The scab fungus survives the winter on plant parts infected the year before. Most spores are released in mid-April, just after bud break. Spores are spread locally by dew and splashing rain and over longer distances by wind. Scab spores need free moisture to germinate, usually supplied in the form of dew. Spores also require moderate temperatures to germin
The squirrels will be giving you a visit real soon, if they can get to that tree, they’ll strip it clean by October. Best defense is to plant more trees, so both of y’all can enjoy. I have tried trapping, shooting, predator decoys, aluminum flashing around trunks, nothing works except more trees.
A raptor is very effective, I think they even have a season?
Good info PB. One great thing about this forum is that someone on here knows something about everything 
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Uh…where’s my pat on the back? 
Pat 
Those caterpillars make good bream bait too
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
I have a huge old 100ft pecan tree in my backyard that has several of those nests way up in the tree. They’re awful and the poop gets all over everything.
Well, it looks like it must be scab. Is there anything besides proper fertilization that you have had success with to beat it back, PB?
Thanks to all for the advice on this!
NN
quote:Good air flow around the trees is helpful, fungicides are helpful too, but is hard to apply once the tree reaches 20-30ft, at least hard for the average homeowner.
Originally posted by DoubleNWell, it looks like it must be scab. Is there anything besides proper fertilization that you have had success with to beat it back, PB?
Thanks to all for the advice on this!
NN
If you’ve noticed a pecan grove before, you’ll see trees spaced far apart, and limbed up away from the ground. Little to no turf around trees as well, anything to keep the mold spores and fungus down. Dry weather and proper fertilization is the best defense.
This tree is in the front yard, another on the side yard, and 10-12 trees next door. Zinc and 16-4-4 in late February, that’s it.