Any thoughts (pro’s / con’s) on adding pods to a fiberglass boat (14’ High Tide) rebuild? The pods would be fiberglass with a wood core and in my thoughts would be glassed to the transom. I am not going to consider them if through bolting them is the only option. I am going to have as little opportunity for future water penetration as I can once rebuilt.
Would foam be needed? In reality air is lighter than foam. Also a hollow pod would be able to be drained if need be.
pods are a factory option on many aluminum boats
hollow is fine, I wouldnt fill them with foam.,
wood core is fine
design them with a drain plug just like the transom, and a sealed access port on top.
make sure they are slightly higher than the transom, so they dont interfere with planing surface at top end.
kind of life trim tabs when they are retracted
they can easily be glassed to the hull.
are you wanting them to support a heavier transom loadfor more rear flotation?
Thinking of making it easier to get and stay on plane at slower speeds, as well as getting the rear end up as much as possible due to potential weight, gear, etc. I guess I could always add them later if needed. I am probably thinking too far out in the future, but I guess it is better to be ahead of things than fall behind.
Most boats with pods are designed for them, but some are added on. If done right they can make the boat have a longer running surface and increase floatation and capacity in a smaller hull.
Some are taller than these and incorporate bait wells and storage. If I were not using them for bait wells or storage I would fill them with foam and seal them completely. An inspection port on top will just let in water, they all leak, which then requires a drain plug, but if it is a sealed unit as shown above, water will never get in it.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair
I would think DIY trim tabs would be the best rout.
In this pic from microskiff.com, the guy replaced the shocks with a standard SS turnbuckle you could get potentially at any hardware store. This should be an easy 45 minute thing. I have a slice of 1/4" thick HDPE plastic that I’m going to use to make mine if I end up needing them on my square stern canoe (if I go that route, I haven’t bought it yet).
I agree that tabs are probably better to create more running surface and bow control, but they do not add any floatation, which is probably my primary concern. I found 28 holes that were drilled and patched in my transom once I started cutting things apart. That will not happen again as long as I own it. Therefore no screw or bolt holes for tabs or pods, etc.
quote:Ouch - some people will drill holes in their boat at the drop of a hat.
No kidding. And never properly seal any of them. People kill their own boats like that on a regular basis. Keeps me busy
quote:
I found 28 holes that were drilled and patched in my transom once I started cutting things apart.
That’s about average this Sea Ox that I rebuilt the transom of had about 72 holes once I found them all Some of them filled with bathtub caulk, most worse than that.
Rebuilt…
This little boat had about 40
This one more than that
Same boat rebuilt…
I counted 35 holes in this one before I even started digging out caulk under paint.
I love DIYers with a drill motor. They pay the bills
Holes are OK if you do them properly. You have to have a few, obviously. First drill them out well over size, then fill them completely with thickened epoxy. Then re-drill them on center to the correct size. This leaves an epoxy ring to keep the core forever sealed. And then put 5200 on the bolts and fittings…