Guys,
I see some braid wrapped around my prop, so I need to take the nut off. I took out the cotter pin already. Is that nut a reverse thread, or does “lefty loosey” still apply? I don’t want to over-torque it the wrong direction. Engine is a yamaha outboard. Thanks!
Loosen counter clockwise as normal…not a reverse thread.
I can’t get the darn thing off. I’m afraid I’m going to damage it. Guess I will just wait until I bring it in for service.
It’s really not that hard to do. Do a search on youtube for prop removal. It will show you step by step, make sure you are using a block of wood to stop the prop from spinning. Good Luck
Yeah, all those youtube videos show nuts that just come right off. Mine seems to be “frozen”. Tried the wood block thing too.
Spray it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day then respray and take it off.
I had one on an engine that didn’t want to come off. The PB Blaster worked like a charm.
218WA Sailfish
The "Penn"sion Plan
Tried an air wrench? If so, it may be time for a little heat on the nut.Very little and just on the nut. May also want to put wet rag behind it so nothing but the nut gets warm. Be sure to hold your mouth right. Good luck.
‘87 Pacemaker 31’ SF
‘04 Renegade 29’ 2 225’s
‘97 Maycraft 17’ 40 hp
Some props have a mb washer behind the nut that has tabs that you bend up so the castle nut can’t turn. Make sure there are no tabs holding onto the nut. If so, bend them down with a punch and hammer.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
if you have line behind the prop, please get it fixed before you cause the seal to fail, and then need a new lower unit
if the nut is seized, sometimes a dremel tool to cut the nut is the only way
Finally got it! Took a combination of PB Blaster, heat, and a little “dynamic” action, but I finally loosened the nut. Glad I did too. I could tell that braid would have done some serious damage to the seal. Thanks for the warning, chris V, and the other suggestions guys.