I am trying to remove the propeller from a 115 Yamaha for inspection and lubrication. Cotter pin and nut are removed, but the rest won’t budge. I have drowned the shaft with WD40 and PB penetrant and tapping with a rubber mallet on the base of the propeller with no success.
Don’t want to try any corrosive acids such as CLR to dissolve the corrosion because it could damage seals on lower unit.
I have read some folks using heat on the propeller, or backing the boat into the water while tied to trailer and reversing the engine with the prop nut loosened a bit, or using a propeller pulling device (which I don’t have, but are available for $100 or more.)
I should have been doing this annually with the outboard servicing but apparently it isn’t normally included.
Anyone have any suggestions of removing the prop without causing damage to prop or outboard?
There were some postings on this topic on CF some years ago, but the link wouldn’t work.
quote:Shoot fire on the prop til it glows. The prop was BORN of fire. :wink:
Originally posted by boatflyI am trying to remove the propeller from a 115 Yamaha for inspection and lubrication. Cotter pin and nut are removed, but the rest won’t budge. I have drowned the shaft with WD40 and PB penetrant and tapping with a rubber mallet on the base of the propeller with no success.
Don’t want to try any corrosive acids such as CLR to dissolve the corrosion because it could damage seals on lower unit.
I have read some folks using heat on the propeller, or backing the boat into the water while tied to trailer and reversing the engine with the prop nut loosened a bit, or using a propeller pulling device (which I don’t have, but are available for $100 or more.)
I should have been doing this annually with the outboard servicing but apparently it isn’t normally included.
Anyone have any suggestions of removing the prop without causing damage to prop or outboard?
There were some postings on this topic on CF some years ago, but the link wouldn’t work.
Get some sili kroil penetrating oil, it has silicone in it and also dissolves rust. Trim the motor up as far as it will go, spray on the oil and let it soak. You will see it foaming as it penetrates.
War Eagle 115 yamaha 4 stroke
had a similar situation with my steering wheel being seized. A pulley puller took it right off. Rented one from auto zone. They took a deposit and refunded it back after you returned it.
im not to sure, but im pretty sure…
If you are around Beaufort, I have several pullers you can use. HOWEVER, I have found the pullers will sometimes pull the prop off and leave the splines on the shaft (rubber bushing gives way). If that happens you will have different issues to deal with. Some splines can be pulled with a good wheel puller, some will require heat or PB blaster or a combination of both.
Good luck!
ZX
Looking for some sili kroil penetrant. I bought a 6" gear puller at Northern Tool for $17. But since there isn’t a fixed spot for the 3 pullers to grab the base of the prop, the puller slips to the outside of the prop. I tied a heavy strap around the base of the prop and got some force on the prop, but the puller was getting off center and continuing to the more I tightened. I need to improvise some kind of a bridle that evenly pulls on the prop yet won’t damage the prop.
loosen prop nut some
back in water hard reverse a few times while still strapped to trailer
^^^ That
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
I tried the loosened prop nut and reversing the engine while the boat was tied to the trailer, it only entertained a guy at the boat landing who thought I was launching and forgot my straps were attached. No movement on prop at all.
I went to Mike at Skip’s III Propeller Service on Cross County Road, amazingly he persuaded the prop off in less than a minute with his aluminum headed mallet. He took the prop into the shop and hydraulically pressed the plastic and aluminum hub out of the prop, replaced it with a new one, new cotter pin and I was out the door in 15 minutes. The only charge was $20 for the new hub!
I cleaned all of the parts, lubed them up, propeller back on and ready for the water.
Thanks Mike and Yon from Skip’s.