Well, rigging time on the old Bentz-Craft…and I only want to do this once, and do it right the first time, so I’m asking for the hive’s input on this.
Question 1: I am installing an Atlas Micro-Jacker jackplate on the transom. Should I put a layer of 5200 or similar (4200? LifeSeal?) between the fresh AwlCraft and the aluminum of the plate? Like cover the entire faying surface of the plate and then install?
Question 2: Wet install through-bolts with sealant also? How much is enough? Cover them and install and clean up squeezed-out excess?
Question 3: Torque spec on those bolts?
Question 4: Apply sealant between jack plate and outboard?
Question 5: Wet install those bolts too?
Question 6: Torque specs on those bolts?
Sorry if these sound dumb…some of them seem elementary to me, and I have always just gooped some 5200 on it all and put it together, but I want to do this one one time and it be forever. I also would usually just snug them up with some German torque (Gudentight), but the aircraft mechanic in me is coming out this time.
Thanks
- No. just around the bolt holes.
- Yes. Goop them up good with 5200 and let it ooze out everywhere. Then clean up the mess. Mineral spirits will take it right off.
- I forget but can look it up. I think about 120 ft/lbs.
- No
- No
- Again don’t remember, but can look it up. Also probably 120 ft/lbs or so. Just call Atlas and ask them.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
quote:
Originally posted by Cracker Larry
- No. just around the bolt holes.
- Yes. Goop them up good with 5200 and let it ooze out everywhere. Then clean up the mess. Mineral spirits will take it right off.
- I forget but can look it up. I think about 120 ft/lbs.
- No
- No
- Again don’t remember, but can look it up. Also probably 120 ft/lbs or so. Just call Atlas and ask them.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thanks, Larry!
My reason for asking about between the plate and transom, and between motor and plate, is for corrosion…I don’t want there to be a possibility of any water to get between the parts to accelerate corrosion.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
If I were you i would say “YES” to all 1-6 !!
Cannot hurt – plus more is better anyway !!
I’m going as far as installing all hardware with Tef-Gel on it all…maybe I could do that between the plate and motor? Probably just overkill and a waste of good money…but I’m good at that last part!
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Can’t say cause I don’t know the correct answer , but if you ever want/need to remove jackplate 5200-4200 would make it a PNTA to remove,just thinking out loud!!
George McDonald ; MAD Charleston
[http://www.militaryappreciationday.org
When you see “Old Glory” waving in the breeze, know that it is the dying breaths of our fallen hero’s that makes it wave.
author unknown
I never use 5200 unless I plan on never removing it. I use life caulk on engine mounts. Nicest install I’ve ever seen,they drilled the engine mounts oversize, used short pieces of grey plastic pipe epoxied in the holes to completely seal off the transom. The engine bolts went thru the grey plastic pipe, a little clear silicone and it was good to go. This was on a race boat that they removed the engine regularly and it prevented any issue of water getting in the transom. It was a bit of overkill, but it was nice
We remove outboard motors from new boats daily. I can say that I have never seen one with 5200 used for mounting. I agree with spareparts and gail wins, if you ever want to remove it it will be a god time, not really…
if that hull has a plywood cored transom (it might, I don’t remember), you want to be overly aggressive with measures to prevent water from getting to the wood. I agree with that Larry guy. 5200 on through bolts. Let it squeeze. Clean up later.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Ready to see some more pics too!
Fishing Nerd
“you win some, you lose some…but nothing beats getting some!”