Here is the link again if you want to totally ignore what the world leader in filtration products specs their stuff at. http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/7702_Rev_D_(BRO_Marine_Gasoline_Fuel_Filters).pdf
You will have to copy-paste the whole link to get it to work.
Again, Yamaha does not sell anything better than 10 micron for a fuel water separator yet. And again, Parker/Racor JUST came out with the 2 micron element for outboards recently.
I like how you take everything to the extreme to try and get your points across, Scoutin.
I will say again for the last time: I used to run 10 micron ahead of the engine. I used to buy 85 dollar yamaha 2 micron filters more often than I’d like. I put a 2 micron racor ahead of everything instead, and this kept the 2 micron yamaha filtration from becoming clogged so often, thus capable of doing their job of cleaning out the crystals and sludge from the internal fuel system far better. I am not offshore coming in at 4500 RPM’s suddenly as my max anymore like when a mid pressure filter would clog up (which is EXTREMELY HARD to change out, btw, compared to a spin on racor). I am also not paying 85 dollars for a filter that costs 2 dollars to make nor am I having VST or any other fuel issues.
Yamaha also says you cannot clean the high pressure screens on the pump on the HPDI, but there’s a thread on here explaining in detail how to do it and how it can save someone over 1000 dollars by not having a yamaha high pressure pump sent off to a certified rebuilder.
Now, all that being said, I have learned a lot from this thread thanks to spareparts mostly. I’ve learned that if I’m going to run a 2 micron I’d better change it out often or else I’m starving my engine and causing problems for the front end of the fuel system (low pressure pumps, etc.) I’ve learned if I don’t want to change the racor out often, regardless of what I’m seeing in the bowl, then I need to be running a 10 micron so that good enough flow is ensured for the engine. Not enough fuel is just