Good deal, Op. Y’all’s website is very cool, by the way.
I noticed in a couple of pictures that y’all 1) don’t use fluoro or mono leaders and 2) you don’t use a loop-knot when connecting your jig heads. I thought these two points were “imperative” to inshore success, but y’all flat-out catch fish, so what gives? Your thoughts, please?
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
I typically let water clarity determine if I use a leader or not. That said, I have a buddy that uses straight braid all of the time, regardless of water clarity, and he puts as many fish in the boat as anyone I know.
Is that picture from this week? When do you usually start targeting reds on top? Catching anything on topwater is my absolute favorite way to catch’em.
Earn it everyday
If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace.
Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
That is correct, we don’t use leader normally, with the exception of if the water is very clear like for example the Wando in January “Wando Gin”. I used to believe the conventional wisdom of leaders being required, but Ralph learned me otherwise. Surely it can’t hurt, but it’s definitely not imperative. Now we use 10 lb green PowerPro braid pretty much exclusively and all I know is that I can’t see it, so probably a fish can’t either. It’s just another knot to fail and have to tie. The 10 lb PP is so thin that you do not need to tie a loop knot, it does not impede the action at all. BTW we are not affiliated with PP, it just works for us so why change? I would not tie directly on with a bright colored hi-vis braid however.
If you see me with a fluoro leader it’s because I was chunking plugs in the AM and switched to jigs after the sun came up. In that case by all means I will have a loop knot (non-slip mono loop is my preference). On that subject, I use a triple surgeons knot to tie my leader on braid. For me, its the easiest to tie, and for me is stronger than a uni-uni. Just make sure you test the knot after tying because it must be tight or it will slip. Ralph ties braid directly to his plug, but for me it tangles too much. I don’t want to be picking braid out of my split rings when the bite is on!
So archer, now is a great time for reds on top. When the water gets in the upper 60s to mid 70’s, that seems to be a redfish’s wheelhouse for temp. They fight like crazy with tons of energy and they will definitely use that energy to chase a plug.
That pic was yesterday. Ralph just told me they witnessed a red run up on top of the bar in 3" of water chasing the plug and crawled like a pig off of it. They could only stare in disbelief!
Thanks for the heads up on the water temp. Good to know.
Also, when you say “10lb PP,” are you talking about their 2/10 (2lb test diamter with 10lb breaking strength)? And I thought I was going “light” with their 6/20.
I have been playing with some Sunline SX1 braided line and have been VERY pleased with it. It’s smoother than PP so you get less “wind knots” due to the fact the smoother surface doesn’t grab ahold of itself and it doesn’t have a resin coating like PP. Again, reducing friction on itself and your rod guides. Granted I still have PP on most of my gear since this is only a test session for the Sunline but like I said, I’ve been very pleased with it.
Again, thanks for sharing.
Earn it everyday
If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace.
Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
I’m not sure about the 2/10. Its just labeled 10lb as far as I know. I’ve tried the PP slick and once burned… I have not strayed from the original since because I hasn’t failed me. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll give it a try.