I decided to remove the swim platform/ladder from my 17 ft skiff. Glad I did since there was zero silicone in the screw holes.Cant remember if it was dealer or factory installed but a poor job regardless. Ive vacuumed most of the water out and have the front raised as much as possible and it`s drying out. My plan, unless someone has a better idea, is to fill the screw holes with 3M 5200 and cap with Marine Tex. Fill the thru bolts with Marine Tex. Any other suggestions ?
Thanks
First drill them out a size or 2 larger than they are and check for wet wood. If the core wood is wet, drill them out some more until you get to dry wood. Then fill them. Marine Tex is good stuff. I would skip the 5200 on that and just use MarineTex or thickened epoxy.
Who would install something like that 
(Lots of people do) That’s why boats die an early death.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Thanks for your reply. Its all fiberglass not wood in this boat. ( Carolina Skiff) but did soak up some water. The only reason I thought of 5200 was to get it further in the hull but if you believe stuffing as much Marine Tex as possible to fill the void thats what I will do and skip a step. Thanks.
Use a large syringe or a putty knife to force it completely through the holes. Keep packing it in one side until it comes out the other.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
quote:
Originally posted by Cracker LarryWho would install something like that
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
When I was building OEM aluminum t-tops, etc., I was amazed at some of the shoddy installation processes at a few of the manufacturers. Little or no 5200 at mounting locations, screws, where they could have just as easily thru bolted with backing pads or at least fender washers. Most were open to suggestions on “proper” installation, but a few refused to change. (until not so good things happened and they realized this dumb old welder might know what he’s talking about:wink:)
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
Both MarineTex and 5200 are good products. I just used some WestSystems 610 thickened epoxy to fill holes in the transom, console, and rail. I thought this stuff was excellent. It comes with a syringe that mixes both parts of the epoxy when you use it. I used duct tape to back the bottom or outside hole, jammed the syringe in until hole was full, then topped the upper or inside hole with duct tape to prevent the overpour from going everywhere. It worked great and I had no sanding what so ever. The draw back is that it does not dry white.
Narcosis
You need to drill a hole on each side of the hull and drain the water from the lowest point of the hull. Can almost guarantee you have water migrated into the foam floor. I assume since this is a ladder mounting, the holes are a little higher up the transom.
Also after as much water has drained, I would connect a shop vac that is taped to the boats and suction more water out. Probably let the vacuum run most of a day.
“Banana Pants”
Indigo Bay 170
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
I agree with larry
do not use 5200
also, drill a drain hole at the bottom of the transom, and get a garboard drain plug assembly and install over the new hull
I had a 17 skiff and it would regularly get water in the hull
Thanks for everyones input. I have used marine tex many times in the past but always above the water line. I already had some and was going to use for the through bolts. I guess I was wondering if there was some " latest greatest " thing for sealing below the water line. The water did not migrate thru the transom, the other screw hole, a foot away and 2 inches lower was dry.These holes were for the stiff legs and drilled almost to the very bottom of the hull.I connected two vacuums in series and now it seems to be dry so Ill try the patching today.
As a side note, I tried every chemical, bleach and boating product known to mankind to remove the rust stains. I finally made a paste of bar keepers friend and wet sanded with 220 grit paper. Took it right off with minimal effort and little scratching.
I recently used a product called FSR, a blue gell in a round tub to remove a buuuunch of stains from a boat and was amazed at the effectiveness. I wiped it on and all the stains faded away to nothing! That stuff was magic.
I agree, Ive used FSR and it is usually works great. In this case ,maybe because it was bolted and was there for so long, it did nt do the job, believe me, I tried before I resorted to the method I ended up using. FSR, toilet bowl cleaner, hull cleaners etc. and nothing else worked. Rust was probably impregnated in the fiberglass rather than surface rust. Id bet I have 40 or more boat ( and other ) products in the garage. Some work and are worth the money,,, others,, not so much.. I might start another conversation on what I believe works and what is a waste of money. Still looking for the best wax, Colinite has a huge following but havent tried it yet. Trying the 3M paste wax now and have tried the PTEF wax with decent but not great results.