I just replaced the bearings in my hubs & I know that you need a little play in the wheel. When I tighten the nut down it is too tight & the wheel has no play but if I back off by just one notch with the nut the the wheel seems to me to have too much play. What do you think is better no play or what seems to be a little too much?
Also how much grease in the hub cavity, I probably filled up half the cavity with grease but should I have packed it completely full (I have no grease fitting)?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
quote:
I know that you need a little play in the wheel
Don’t know where you learned the above, but a “little play” will lead to a little vibration which will lead to a premature failure.
If I remember right the recommended torque value for the castle nut is somewhere around 40ft.lbs. for the initial installation. Rotate the hub as you tighten the nut.
Here is how I do it…Pack the bearings and hub, install them and the castle nut/washer. Torque to 40ftlb. while turning the hub occasionaly. After everything is tight, back the nut off about 1 turn. Retighten the nut till it contacts the washer firmly. Tighten the nut to the next closest slot and install the cotter-pin.
Tapered roller bearings are meant to run with a “pre-load” not loose.
In the past I would fill my hubs around 1/2 full of grease to prevent heat build-up but now-a-days I fill them completely full. I haven’t seen any difference in building heat and if the hubs are %100 full of grease then maybe it will be a little more difficult for water intrusion to occur.
Thanks, I will go back & do that. I did not think it being loose seemed right but some literature I read said it should have a little play.
quote:
Originally posted by RDWquote:
I know that you need a little play in the wheel
Don’t know where you learned the above, but a “little play” will lead to a little vibration which will lead to a premature failure.
If I remember right the recommended torque value for the castle nut is somewhere around 40ft.lbs. for the initial installation. Rotate the hub as you tighten the nut.Here is how I do it…Pack the bearings and hub, install them and the castle nut/washer. Torque to 40ftlb. while turning the hub occasionaly. After everything is tight, back the nut off about 1 turn. Retighten the nut till it contacts the washer firmly. Tighten the nut to the next closest slot and install the cotter-pin.
Tapered roller bearings are meant to run with a “pre-load” not loose.
In the past I would fill my hubs around 1/2 full of grease to prevent heat build-up but now-a-days I fill them completely full. I haven’t seen any difference in building heat and if the hubs are %100 full of grease then maybe it will be a little more difficult for water intrusion to occur.
This is good advice. The initial torque is to make sure everything is seated correctly. Bearing cones and the seal need set 100%. Back off and tighten til it touches and if needed, go next notch tighter.
A little trick to pop out the old grease seal is to remove the outer bearing. Put just the nut back on the spindle and screw it on a couple of turns. Then grab the hub or rotor and yank it off. The inner bearing will remain with the seal on the spindle. If you are in a pinch and have to reuse the grease seal (only if you have to) this does the least amount
I have already changed the bearings, seals, & races and have put it all back together & wheels back on. I will take them off add some more grease & re-install hubs like you guys stated. Thanks for all the help, saved me a possible failure issue.
its also wise to check them and retighten after the first 10-20 mile trip