So I brought my boat home to Charlotte and wanna clean up the wiring in the center console. I’ve also purchased a battery switch and onboard charger and want to add these components, as well as a fuse block, to my system.
Questions:
Other than a fuse block, what, if any, other components do I need to complete this project?
2)Is it better for me to completely remove and redo all wiring or just clean things up with zip ties and clips? Do any of y’all have the pre-made wiring harnesses, and if so, are you pleased with them?
What factors should I be considering that I haven’t mentioned?
As usual, thanks in advance, and I look forward to your ■■■■■■■■.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Rewire if… you are currently having electrical problems, plan on keeping the boat for 25 years, or the boat is older than 25years.
Otherwise, just clean them up with cable ties.
Get this for your battery charger: NOCO Genius GCP1 Black 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug. It’s a 120v outlet so you don’t have to climb into the console to plug in the battery charger.
Rewire Stuff:
Block (use blocks instead of wiring harness)
Marine grade tinned Primary positive wire
Marine grade tinned Primary ground wire
various marine grade tinned wire of different gauge and color for each component. Use ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council)Primary wire color standards.
Switch panel (optional)
Ancor Wire terminals with adhesive lined heat shrink tube (ring terminals, butt connectors, etc…)
Ancor Adhesive lined heat shrink tube
Wire wrap, anchors, and mountable cable ties
Pulling string
Wire fish tape
Stainless steel screws to mount cable ties.
Solder, flux, etc.
Having done this a couple years ago, I’d recommend go ahead and replace everything. It will cost a couple grand but will extend the life of your boat significantly.
I used all tinned wire and heat shrink adhesive connectors. Also use plenty of dielectric grease on the terminals.
I’ve wired and rewired many a boat. I’d usually rather just start from scratch, replace it all and do it right. Some boats are built in a way that make that almost impossible, some not.
look at https://www.genuinedealz.com/ for the best quality and pricing on wiring products. I get almost everything I use from there. They also have wiring size and color charts and will custom make cables if you want. Fast service too.
Can’t beat Blue Sea brand for fuse panels, switch panels, switches, breakers and other components.
Thanks for the quick responses. Another question: should I wire the grounds directly to ground terminals on the fuse block, or should I wire them all to one large distribution block? I’ve heard differing opinions and would like to know what y’all think.
Larry, check your pm’s.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Make sure you coat terminals with dielectric grease or corrosion block. Even better than the crimp on heat shrink are the crimp on heat shrink with the solder ring in them. As for a total rewire job vs clean up existing, I’d do a careful inspection to see what shape the older wiring was in. You may just need to cut the ends back and put on new terminals/heat shrinking. Wire brush and sandpaper can clean some things up pretty easily too.
Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
Does anyone, by chance, have a good diagram for a 24-volt system? I’ve seen some online, but I just wanna see what other resources are out there. Thanks again.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Pardon my ignorance, Larry. I thought a “24-volt system” referred (only) to the presence of (2) 12-volt batteries, one for the trolling motor, and one for the motor and accessories.
As you can see, this is all sort of new to me, as this is my first boat. However, I’m decently handy, and I figure doing it myself is how I’ll learn, so any tips or advice are greatly appreciated.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
OK, you do need some guidance. Is your trolling motor a 24 or 12V?
Everything else on the boat is 12V. 2 batteries just gives you double the current capacity at 12V and the ability to isolate one from the other. Typically one is dedicated to starting, the other dedicated to everything else, except the trolling motor. But either can be selected for independent use, or joined together if needed by the selector switch.
This is a typical 2 battery system with 2 bank on board charger…
OK, you do need some guidance. Is your trolling motor a 24 or 12V?
Everything else on the boat is 12V. 2 batteries just gives you double the current capacity at 12V and the ability to isolate one from the other. Typically one is dedicated to starting, the other dedicated to everything else, except the trolling motor. But either can be selected for independent use, or joined together if needed by the selector switch.
This is a typical 2 battery system with 2 bank on board charger…
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
And my man Cracker comes through in the clutch yet again…
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
This might be too labor intensive for a big wiring job, but on my boat trailer wiring I make electrical connections as follows:
crimp the connections using plain crimp on connectors - no heat shrink tube, etc.
clean the connection with flux and a mini-torch
solder connections using the mini-torch and electronics solder
clean connections and the nearby wire thoroughly with acetone or carb spray to get off all grease
apply several coats of liquid electrical tape at and a little ways beyond the connection.
Option: after liquid tape, wrap the connection with “88” electrical tape for abrasion resistance.
If done right, these connections stand up to being repeatedly dunked in salt water.
Edit: for wire to wire connections, do as above except overlap the bare wires and twist over each other before fluxing and soldering.
It’s quite a bit cheaper than genuinedeals.com
I’ve used them before and just bought some yesterday.
The quality is excellent. And my paypal invoice is from genuinedeals anyway.
You’ll pay shipping. But it was only $6. Still the cheapest I’ve found.
