All,
How do y’all rig flutter and/or weighted hooks (without the barb or screw attached to the hook’s eye)? I can do it, but I’m convinced there’s a better way. Thanks in advance for your ■■■■■■■■.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
See how the bait swims. If you are off center it can greatly affect the action. If it doesn’t swim straight I always rerig. Adjusting how you rig the nose of the bait can affect the bait by causing it to swim up, neutral, or down.
Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC “JB3”
Native Manta Ray 14
quote:
Originally posted by hairball
- Insert the hook into the nose of the bait about 1/4".
- Turn the bait sharply to exit the hook out of the bottom.
- Run the hook through the bait so that that the 1/4" inserted section is above the bend near the eye of the hook.
- Determine where the bend of the hook will be in the body of the bait so that the bait will neither be stretched or bunched up. Run the hook straight through the body of the bait from the bottom and out to the top.
- Adjust the bait so that it sits straight at the eye and the top of the bait is pressed up against the hookpoint.
See how the bait swims. If you are off center it can greatly affect the action. If it doesn’t swim straight I always rerig. Adjusting how you rig the nose of the bait can affect the bait by causing it to swim up, neutral, or down.
Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC “JB3”
Native Manta Ray 14
Thank you very much for the response, Hairball. So I’m correct in that you do indeed pass the weighted part of the hook through the hole created at the top of the bait? That was my main question, as I figured there was another way that I hadn’t yet learned.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Yes, that is correct.
Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC “JB3”
Native Manta Ray 14
If I am being SUPER particular about fishing an old school flutter hook (no screw), I will pre-punch a hole through the plastic with the hook point before I tie the hook to the line. I will then push the hook’s eyelet through the pre-made hole so as to not rip the plastic any more than necessary by threading the plastic up and around the weight; then I tie the line. It’s a PITA, but well worth it as the hook-up ratio is better with that style flutter hook vs. the ones with the springs because the plastic is allowed to slide up the line instead of being stuck on the spring.
This is easy and works with Z-Man baits:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MVYAh7TJ-4
Doesn’t work so well with the others.
quote:
Originally posted by RADDADDYIf I am being SUPER particular about fishing an old school flutter hook (no screw)</font id=“red”>, I will pre-punch a hole through the plastic with the hook point before I tie the hook to the line. I will then push the hook’s eyelet through the pre-made hole so as to not rip the plastic any more than necessary by threading the plastic up and around the weight; then I tie the line. It’s a PITA, but well worth it as the hook-up ratio is better with that style flutter hook vs. the ones with the springs because the plastic is allowed to slide up the line instead of being stuck on the spring.
Thanks Rad. In what situation(s) do you prefer the old-school flutter hooks to the screw-type?
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Black Bart- Some of the more stiff plastics are tough to set the hook through when using screw type flutter hooks. Gulp! is one of the worst. When it gets stiff, it won’t move away from the hook point enough during a bite to get good penetration. With every type plastic though, your hook-up ratio will be better with the old-school style. On all days except tournament days, all my flutter hook rods are rigged with Owner TwistLocks, 3/0 & 4/0 because they are plastic savers; but when every bite counts, I’ll use the Gamakatsu 3/0 SuperLine old school style hook.
and that ^^^ is a protip from RD