quote:
Originally posted by 180 seaproBlue Grease ““Sucks”” it washes away fast —
Red grease is the ticket it wont wash away !!
have to strongly disagree
blue grease is actually labeled as a “waterproof” grease
red grease is generally listed as a high temp grease.
we use OMC blue grease on all non wheel bearing applications
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Corrosion-X has been working well for me. Check it out online.
Chris V – Lucas Red “N” Tacky Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium complex grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors. It has excellent water resistance and washout properties. It has excellent mechanical stability and storage life. It is able to withstand heavy loads for extended periods of time !!
Also Corrosion X does work great also !!
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vquote:
Originally posted by 180 seaproBlue Grease ““Sucks”” it washes away fast —
Red grease is the ticket it wont wash away !!
have to strongly disagree
blue grease is actually labeled as a “waterproof” grease
red grease is generally listed as a high temp grease.
we use OMC blue grease on all non wheel bearing applicationswww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
What do y’all use on bearings?
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
quote:
Originally posted by StumpNockerquote:
Originally posted by chris Vquote:
Originally posted by 180 seaproBlue Grease ““Sucks”” it washes away fast —
Red grease is the ticket it wont wash away !!
have to strongly disagree
blue grease is actually labeled as a “waterproof” grease
red grease is generally listed as a high temp grease.
we use OMC blue grease on all non wheel bearing applicationswww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
What do y’all use on bearings?
Fishing Nerd“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
red high temp grease
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The nickel (silver) anti seize pictured above doesn’t have copper, but if you use it, make sure to drop your torque ratings down about 10% or so. I also smear some grease on the out of the lug nuts so I can still get a tire iron socket on them.
Grady White 228G / F250
quote:does not really matter what the additional metal is, its a 3rd metal added to the mix. far better to just use blue grease.
Originally posted by CaballaThe nickel (silver) anti seize pictured above doesn’t have copper, but if you use it, make sure to drop your torque ratings down about 10% or so. I also smear some grease on the out of the lug nuts so I can still get a tire iron socket on them.
Grady White 228G / F250
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Nickel has a much higher anodic index than stainless or even copper so there isn’t really a concern for the added nickel to cause galvanic corrosion. Is that what you are referring to?
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vquote:does not really matter what the additional metal is, its a 3rd metal added to the mix. far better to just use blue grease.
Originally posted by CaballaThe nickel (silver) anti seize pictured above doesn’t have copper, but if you use it, make sure to drop your torque ratings down about 10% or so. I also smear some grease on the out of the lug nuts so I can still get a tire iron socket on them.
Grady White 228G / F250
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Grady White 228G / F250
I have no idea what the “anodic index” is. I am not a chemist nor do I play one on the internet.
I do know that adding a 3rd metal, regardless of what it is, is worse than not having a 3rd metal
plus its cheaper, does a great job, not only does grease prevent seizing, its stops corrosion, and provides a waterproof barrier to keep water from getting between the threads and its one less thing needed to keep up with.
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quote:
Originally posted by chris VI have no idea what the “anodic index” is. I am not a chemist nor do I play one on the internet.
I do know that adding a 3rd metal, regardless of what it is, is worse than not having a 3rd metal
plus its cheaper, does a great job, not only does grease prevent seizing, its stops corrosion, and provides a waterproof barrier to keep water from getting between the threads and its one less thing needed to keep up with.www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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I’ve personally had nothing but good luck using the same silver anti-seize for years. No corrosion issues at all.
I found a fishing pole on the bottom of the ocean covered in marine growth a few weeks ago. It had been living there for a really long time in the current. Blue grease kept that reel in excellent operating condition. All of the bearings were free and it didn’t look like any grease had washed off. I don’t think silver anti-seize could have done that.
I think we all have a lot of respect for the way Chris V does things. If he serviced my trailer I would be satisfied.
In terms of wet torque - from an engineering standpoint, less friction on the treads means less running torque. Less running torque means more clamping force, so the fastener needs less torque to clamp the stack-up properly. Less running torque also means the fastener will be able break free easier. Breaking free means loose wheels… From a mechanics standpoint, I’ll torque mine a little higher than usual.
Just my 2 cents, since this conversation seems to be escalating.
Why is it worse?
quote:
Originally posted by chris VI have no idea what the “anodic index” is. I am not a chemist nor do I play one on the internet.
I do know that adding a 3rd metal, regardless of what it is, is worse than not having a 3rd metal
plus its cheaper, does a great job, not only does grease prevent seizing, its stops corrosion, and provides a waterproof barrier to keep water from getting between the threads and its one less thing needed to keep up with.www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Grady White 228G / F250
Same; I have never had any issues either using it, but for one reason or another, remove my wheels at least once a year.
The idea behind lowering the torque rating is that much of the torque applied to the lug nut is overcoming the friction the threads and the lug nut have between each other; once you remove that friction, there is less torque required to hold the lug in place. I do know, from experience, it’s much easier to shear off a lug bolt if the threads are lubricated.
Regardless, it’s more important to not get any lubrication (anti seize, grease, whatever)under the lug nut (rather than only on the threads) at the lug nut to wheel contact point.
quote:
Originally posted by MuddyWaterFisherquote:
Originally posted by chris VI have no idea what the “anodic index” is. I am not a chemist nor do I play one on the internet.
I do know that adding a 3rd metal, regardless of what it is, is worse than not having a 3rd metal
plus its cheaper, does a great job, not only does grease prevent seizing, its stops corrosion, and provides a waterproof barrier to keep water from getting between the threads and its one less thing needed to keep up with.www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
I’ve personally had nothing but good luck using the same silver anti-seize for years. No corrosion issues at all.
I found a fishing pole on the bottom of the ocean covered in marine growth a few weeks ago. It had been living there for a really long time in the current. Blue grease kept that reel in excellent operating condition. All of the bearings were free and it didn’t look like any grease had washed off. I don
caballa
as I said, I am no chemist, but I do work with this stuff every day.
if you take an aluminum trailer and bolt things to it with stainless steel hardware, and use said trailer in salt water, every single place that the stainless touches the aluminum you will have corrosion.
dis-similar metals cause the issue.
lug nuts studs and rims are usually made from similar metals, it makes no sense to add a second metal, even if it is less reactive than whatever, when blue grease is not reactive at all, its cheaper, does a better job, and you already have it. having said that, it personally does not bother me at all, for you to use whatever you feel works for, however, based on my professional expertise and experience, we are going to stick with blue grease.
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This ought to be fun. I imagine I will be cutting these off…
Tidewater 1900 Baymax
115 Yamaha
Take the hub off with the rim still on it. Replace with a new hub and rim. I can get you a new tire on a used galvanized rim for $77, and a new galvanized hub for $50. That hub is not reusable, and the rim has seen better days.
Tall Sail Marine
Thanks loopervet. I will come by and get that galvanized hub. I actually already have the galvanized rim and new tire.
Tidewater 1900 Baymax
115 Yamaha
Oh wow, that wheel and hub situation is out of control. There’s no way you could have removed that wheel on-the-fly without a new everything.
what?
just needs a little wire brush work and some anti-seize, and you will be good.
for those with no sense of sarcasm, that wasa joke.
I am kidding.
it all needs to be replaced.
looper
I am gonna need a referral check for all the people I have been sending you lately for evinrude repairs
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I put grease on mine when I grease the bearings and be sure to go all around the bolt. I had a flat one day and even though they were black and looked like they wouldn’t come off, they were a piece of cake changing the tire. One guy with me, an old timer, was impressed they even came off. Me too!
You guys are adding one more thing to boat ownership to cause me to spend more money…ugh.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 22 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 18 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
ECFC