Rustoleum bottom paint....?

Has anyone used this paint…? I read about it and it seems to be as good as any anti-fouling paint.

I’m preping the bottom of my boat for paint. I normally take this boat out in saltwater about 5 or 6 times a yr… A lot of the paints are $200 to $300+ a gal. and I don’t like the copper based paints. That copper leaches out into the water and it can’t be good for anything swimming or crawling.

What’s a good paint and how much would it take to paint the bottom of a Sea Pro 255 - maybe a gal…? I’m just painting the bottom - I’m not going to paint up to the water line. Everything I’ve read about botttom painting has people rolling it on and not spraying it on…is there a reason for that, maybe the paint isn’t made to be cut and it’s too thick to spray. How about the tape that’s used - what’s a good tape…? Thanks

Rust Oleum does release copper.I use Interlux VC Offshore,slick finish.Does fine with hull cleaning every two weeks.Usually needs a haul out and re-paint every two years.
Most folks charge per foot on the painting

Heard anything good about teflon based bottom paint…?

quote:
Most folks charge per foot on the painting

I’ll be painting it myself…there’s not a lot of people that bottom paint in the upstate. I’ll have to jack the boat off the bunks on one side - remove the bunk - prep \ paint - re-install the bunk - set the boat back down and go to the other side.

Is the sq. ft. coverage per gal or per qt. about the same as any other paint…?

2000 Sea Pro 255 CC
250 Johnson Ocean Pro

" Always have a plan. "

the Interlux VC is a Teflon product.I have used it for 6 or 7 yrs,no problems or complaints.
all bottom coatings are gonna cover about the same.

if your not painting to the water line why paint? stuff will grow whever there isn’t paint.

green grass and high tides forever
jhp----- Murrells Inlet

If the bottom is already been previously painted, then you will have to remove all of it to be able to use the Interlux VC product unless what is already there is vinyl based (like the VC product).

I recommend and ablative paint to which will be self cleaning and will get smoother with age.

Using a roller will work just fine. Use the recommended roller material and nap. You will probably want to thin it out some to get it to wet out better. Again, use the thinner that is recommended.

There are a couple water based paints available if you to be enviromentally concious.

Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”

quote:
if your not painting to the water line why paint? stuff will grow whever there isn't paint.

The boat gets pressure washed everytime it comes out water and it doesn’t stay in the water long enough for anything to start growing. It’s never had the bottom painted since it was new ( 2000 ). I wouldn’t paint it now but before I bought it someone did some fiberglas repair on the bottom that needs sanding and repainting. I’m painting just the bottom keeping the bottom paint lines parallel to the side strips on the boat.

Is there a way to determine whether I have ablative or epoxy paint on the bottom now…? It doesn’t look like the boat has had any painting done to it since it was new…

2000 Sea Pro 255 CC
250 Johnson Ocean Pro

" Always have a plan. "

you should take it to a pro like carl hi-ott.
He can color match the gel coat, and you’ll never see the repair and won’t have to have paint.

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If you rub the paint with your hand or brush when it is wet, ablative paint will rub off slightly and show the color on your hand/brush. I would assume that you have epoxy based paint or you would have noticed it rubbing off and most of the paint would have ablated after 10 years.

If you go ablative, check to see that it is for trailered boats. Paints that are not for trailered boat will harden too much and not retain all of their antifouling characteristics. Then, again since the boat is not kept in the water that won’t matter that much.

Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”