I had a bad Y guide on my trailer and managed to bang up my keel a bit before I got to replacing the piece. The damage looked worse than it was and I wasn’t getting any water intrusion, but wanted to get it patched.
Biat was bone dry, and other than taping it up well, there wasn’t much prep. I used a little less than half of the product, using a putty knife. Once I had all the damaged area covered, I used my fingers (came w a pair of gloves) to wipe it smooth. Peeled off the tape and let it set.
I’m happy with the results. Don’t think I’m even going to sand it since my wiping it ended up smoothing it out pretty well. I used Pettit’s EZ Tex 7100 and it was $27 for 4oz.
Also did my water pump this weekend which was only half as hard as I expected it to be. All went well.
2002 17’SeaHunt
Looks great! I have some similar damage on my hull from the previous owner, and after seeing this I want to fix mine! How does this compare to marine tex? Is one better than the other, or does it matter? Thanks for the help and motivation.
www.ChrisWestSellsCharleston.com.
Give me a call if you are looking to buy or sell a house in the Charlaston area.
So you’re saying you didn’t do any kind of prep work other than the tape? Not wanting to burst your bubble here, but you might be re-doing it before too long. I’ve been looking/researching repairing some similar issues on my keel before adding my keel guard and everything I have seen stated to grind/sand back at least an extra inch past the original damaged part. After patch dries for 24hrs sanding and buffing back smooth to match elevation of existing bottom. Gel coat or bottom coat a layer and buff back smooth. Maybe Loopervet or Chris (someone with some actual experience) can chime in… But who knows, maybe yours will last a lifetime. I hope it does.
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
quote:
Originally posted by StumpNocker
So you’re saying you didn’t do any kind of prep work other than the tape? Not wanting to burst your bubble here, but you might be re-doing it before too long. I’ve been looking/researching repairing some similar issues on my keel before adding my keel guard and everything I have seen stated to grind/sand back at least an extra inch past the original damaged part. After patch dries for 24hrs sanding and buffing back smooth to match elevation of existing bottom. Gel coat or bottom coat a layer and buff back smooth. Maybe Loopervet or Chris (someone with some actual experience) can chime in… But who knows, maybe yours will last a lifetime. I hope it does.
Have repaired the hulls of a few jetskiis and a boat, you’re correct; w.out prep the bond, esp in a high stress location, will not be as strong as if the surrounding area is properly prepped - i.e. sanded. Any ridges/lips at the edges should also be blended or filed down. Have never used Pettit’s EZ Tex 7100, so perhaps it’s more forgiving, but a couple alcohol-only quick n dirty repairs I’ve done on things that don’t really matter, the repairs haven’t lasted.
I would suggest sanding the transition between the repair and the original hull.
if not, the rough edge will be much more likely to come loose and cause the entire patch to fail.
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
I would have spent an extra hour flaring the sides of the gouge. Then filled, and defiantly sand it down to match the hull shape.
Tall Sail Marine
