Well, failing to make time for trailer maintenance (other than thorough rinsing after each trip and greasing hubs) finally caught up with me on my brakes/rotors. My less than 3 year old trailer will not move because the brakes are rusted solid to rotors.
While trying to break loose one of the lug nuts I broke loose the wheel stud. Now the lug and stud just spin but wont come out. Any ideas? The lug nut is only maybe 1/16" away from rim so cutting is probably not an option.
Only had that happen once. PITA. Cut the sides of the nut with a cut off wheel on a dremel tool. Took 15-20, IIRC. Then split it with a chisel and it popped right off. Tedious and it takes a little while, but, it worked.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a dremel and cutoff but was hoping to avoid that. Might work but this nut is right on the rim. What about the stud. Can it be fixed or will I need a whole new hub?
Last comment and curious to see who curses me over this…thinking about removing brakes and being done with it. Have a Seahunt 202 Triton. Came with a single axke with no brakes. This trailer is a tandem axle…do I really need the brakes? Honestly don’t think they worked past the first year and never felt unsafe.
BGC
Over 3,000#, has to have to brakes. It’s the law. No reason to give an attorney an opportunity if something should happen.
Once the hub is off, you can just replace the studs. I would go ahead and replace all of them as you will just have a problem with the others eventually. Put some good marine grease on your threads, or some anti-seize and that shouldn’t happen again.
Just cut it off, and make sure you wear eye protection. Metal shards, and those little cut off wheels like to split and I am sure you value your vision.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Probably less expensive just to buy a new hub than replace all the studs. It’s probably time for hubs and bearings anyway. Hubs are not expensive.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Wow Geronimo, did not know that was the law. I’m surprised the dealer (local one here) sold this boat (not to me, I’m 3rd owner) with a single axle Wesco with no brakes because with the t-top/motor/fuel/moderate gear I have to be over 3000.
Thanks for the replies. Hubs look/spin great but will go see Tommy Monday morning to replace this one and grab a spare.
BGC
May not have been the law when the boat was packaged. I have a 2200# Coleman camper, single axle and even it came with brakes.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
XX2 on what larry said, not a lot of $$$ and a ellava lot easier…
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author unknown
Yeah, pull the whole hub off, cut the stud off from the back side and then replace it with a brand new hub.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
break it off with a 4 way lug wrench- just pull straight up and push straight down- only take a couple of times and it will pop off
How much are hub/rotor assemblies…it’s a load rite tandem 25’. I will buy local but finding 150 online…thats $600 plus calipers and brake lines…seems like a lot to me. Hate that I have to dump almost $1000 into a $3300 trailer that’s less than 3 years old. Maybe I should have been rinsing with something special but it always got a thorough wash down after every use.
BGC
When this happened to me in the past I removed the hub with the wheel and cut the stud from the back as somebody said so you don’t hurt the rim. You can replace the stud but it will spin again as the knurling is gone inside the hole, hubs are really cheap.
2005 Sea Hunt 212 Triton
“Head East”