Hello all,
150 hp Yamaha 4 stroke
Has been starting fine
Twice now go to crank,
Solenoid energizes the stater
Starter spins up the sprocket into the fly wheel
then the fly wheel moves on about an inch or so
does a very faint clicking, not like a solenoid chatter.
Starting to think the battery I have is too small???
Thanks
quote:
Originally posted by ReelShockHello all,
150 hp Yamaha 4 stroke
Has been starting fineTwice now go to crank,
Solenoid energizes the stater
Starter spins up the sprocket into the fly wheel
then the fly wheel moves on about an inch or so
does a very faint clicking, not like a solenoid chatter.Starting to think the battery I have is too small???
Thanks
Check your battery voltage first off. Sounds like low voltage more than battery too small.
running about 12.8 on it and just replaced it about a month ago.
Hmmm… Maybe try using a load tester and see how much amp draw your starter is pulling? Not sure on that engine but I’d imagine it shouldn’t be over 200- 250. I’m sure Chris would know what that starter draws. On the simpler side, recheck all your battery cables. I’d pull em off and make sure they are good and clean.
Since it sounds like you have a voltmeter, if you don’t have a load tester have someone engage starter while checking voltage. You’ll see a drop but it shouldn’t be under 11 -11.5vdc. I still wouldn’t think your battery is too small if it was cranking before but not now.
If voltage drop is excessive, before replacing starter make sure engine bars over easily.
Edit… Wouldn’t be a bad idea to isolate your battery first and load test it. With a bad cell your battery could be showing a good static charge, but drop rapidly under a load. We might be going too deep to quick… 
You can’t get an accurate reading of battery power with out a load on the circuit. Pull the battery out of your car and try that.
2002 17’SeaHunt
Check your ground/connections. Sounds like a loose connection.
The ENTER-NET Fisherman
In typical 12v DC batteries, voltage is a function of the physical layout of the plates/geometry in the battery. The amperage is a function of the chemistry (is the electrolyte in good condition). So, you can have very weak chemistry and completely intact physical structure. This would give very little amperage and full, apparently healthy, 12+ volts.
You can think of direct current electricals for things like starters and solenoids like water flow. Since electrons move and a constant speed we can assume the water speed is constant.
Think of electrical power as water flow where the width of the channel is voltage and the depth is amperage. You can have 12v worth of width and very little depth yielding very little power (width x depth … or volts x amps).
So, to know if your battery is any good, you have to test power, not just volts and not just amps. To do that, remove the battery from the boat and charge it fully. Test it with a load tester like https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200611634_200611634. Most auto parts stores will load test batteries for free since they hope to sell you a new battery.
If the battery checks out good on the load test, then, one by one, disconnect every connection between the battery and the starter solenoid, starter, and engine ground. Clean them to bright metal and re-attach. Recharge (the load test will pull some power out) and connect the battery and try to start the motor. Hopefully, that worked. If it doesn’t then you have bad cables between battery and motor, or bad solenoid and/or starter.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Great summation Palmer, I bet you were a teacher at one time in your career.
I know I used that exact description in apprentice classes. Mine was on medium and high voltage AC… Bet it will spin with 13.8kv, well once anyway…
Thanks to everyone for responses.