I was told to ask Chris V for advice. I have a 2007 key west with a 90 Yamaha TLR. Anyways here is my situation. I went to put in the boat the other day. I went to back it down and realized the steering has locked up. I tried everything to loosen it up. I was told that the grease in the tilt tube will harden up causing the steering to stick. I heated it with a heat gun, lubricated it, and pounded the steering rod with a hammer. I finally tried PB Blaster and got it to break free. I tapped the rod in about 8 inches, but have come to a stand still. The rod will not move when the steering wheel is turned. I would like to tap the rod all the way through and clean out the tube with a shotgun brush, but am I going to have to remove the motor. The hole that the cable goes through is off set and I don’t think I’ll have the clearance to remove the rod with out bending it. It isn’t loose enough to pull back out. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I’m not Chris, but I’ll try to help. Sometimes you have to remove the engine, sometimes not. You did loosen the big nut holding the cable to the engine, right?
Then get a wooden dowel that will fit in the tube and use it to drive out the rod. You can beat on the dowel without damaging anything. It will help if you get someone to turn on the wheel hard while you tap it out. It will become obvious at some point whether you have to remove the engine or not to get it completely out of the tube.
I have a Key West with the same engine, and it has happened to me a couple of times. The best way is to remove the nut on the port side and pull the entire rod out, which requires loosening the engine so it can be lifted with a hoist for clearance. Then clean the bore very well with a round wire brush. I no longer use grease on mine, but use synthetic oil instead and haven’t had any further problems.
Note: tilt tube has nothing to do with the steering. lube all fittings on tilt tube and steering tube at regular intervals to force out water.
I’m not Chris, but I’ll try to help. Sometimes you have to remove the engine, sometimes not. You did loosen the big nut holding the cable to the engine, right?
Then get a wooden dowel that will fit in the tube and use it to drive out the rod. You can beat on the dowel without damaging anything. It will help if you get someone to turn on the wheel hard while you tap it out. It will become obvious at some point whether you have to remove the engine or not to get it completely out of the tube.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Great advice, just remember, don’t turn the wheel too hard or you’ll tear up the helm’s gears. Happened to me about a month ago and when trying to furn the steering wheel to break it loose, I damaged the helm and made my day a whole lot worse.
I have the same motor on my sea pro and the same thing has happened a few times. Usually after sitting during the winter and not using it for a few months. I’ve been able to fix it by loosening the nuts that hold the steering bar in place, turn the steering wheel until the bar comes out as far as it can, without actually removing it, then clean the bar and the casing as best I can, put a little grease on it, turn the wheel to get it back in and tighten up the nuts. It worked for a couple of times. The last time it did it, this past year, I just took it in to Chris at Charleston Marine and had them fix it while they did the annual on the engine. It’s a pain when it happens, especially when you don’t notice it until you are at the ramp! Since that happened to me the first time, I make sure and turn the wheel before I leave the house along with checking the battery each time I’m heading out.
You can use the tra. jack to remove the motor, winde it till the foot is firmly on the floor , unbolt the motor and brace it to the rear cleats with rope let off the jack and swing the motor far enougf to remove the cable. It helps if you have some one to steadty the motor.
not a bad job!
Update. My neighbor, who is way more mechanically inclined than I, came and helped me. We ended up filing down the flared edges where I was hitting the rod and kept the PB blaster to it. We worked it almost all the way through. Kept cleaning with brake cleaner and PB blaster until nothing but clear lubricant was coming out. Didn’t have to remove the motor and it turns with ease now. I will make sure to keep it greased and turn often in the off season. I also added a little anti-seize to the rod. Thanks again fellows.