I mostly fish artificials in the winter which for me is a small finesse presentation but i plan to throw them more this summer. I basically am just throwing the mirrodine and yo zuri twitch bait right now. The yo zuri throws way farther but im not sure about if its better since i lost mine to a bite off after 1 trout and about 20 cast. I was throwing 20lb flouro and it got cut easily. So i got 2 questions.
What are you throwing?
What leader are you throwing it on?
In the warm water months, a paddle tail or curly tail has always done best for me. Early and late in the day I like darker colors, lighter for brighter, 15-20 flouro leader when in clearer water but right now the in the Cooper it’s pretty stained and braid straight to the hook eye has worked for me as well! Back to the color thing though, trying different colors has often paid off. As far as hard baits, I don’t have a lot of experience in the salt with them but a friend of mine loves his pink suspending crank type bait and a dark gold and black mirrordine type too!
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
Topwater baits (“walk-the-dog” style and popping style)- straight braid, no leader
4"-5" soft plastic swimbaits (rigged on either a weighted swimbait hook or on a Eye Strike jig head)- 3’-4’ of 10lb-14lb test fluorocarbon (Sunline) leader
Shallow-running crankbaits (typically thrown on a bait casting reel)- straight fluorocarbon 17lb-20lb test
Bottom bouncing various Z-Man soft plastics (typically rigged on Eye Strike jig heads)- Braid main line (12lb-16lb test) with a 3’-4’ fluorocarbon leader (10lb-14lb test)
If the water is dirty and/or has some color to it, I don’t used a leader at all and go straight braid.
Not saying my way is the best way. It’s simply my way and it works for me.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
I fish jigs with high contrast eyes (glow, chart) in summer because I believe if the fish see the eye they will strike and I believe they can see these colors just a little farther away.
For size, match the hatch. I’ve caught trout on 6" swimmerz in summer.
Topwater, my personal favorite currently is the SkitterV. I always use a small amount of mono or fluor leader as you will have far less incidences of getting braid in your split rings or tangled around your trebs. Nothing worse than picking braid out your split rings while your buddy is getting topwater strikes!! I finally convince Ralph to do this. Old dogs can learn new tricks. I’ll credit Mike Jr at Haddrells who I learned this trick from.
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207
www.eyestrikefishing.com #predatorsstriketheeye
ixnay on the argerlay wimbaitsay! 
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
quote:
Originally posted by bangstickixnay on the argerlay wimbaitsay!
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
Haha. Not to hi-jack, but you ever talk to other people our age in pig latin and see the look on kids faces?
LMAO!!! No but I’m going to now! LOL!!
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
How do you connect the 3-4’ of leader to your braid when tying on a eyestrike jig head? Do you suggest just a barrel swivel?
quote:
Originally posted by bangstickTopwater baits (“walk-the-dog” style and popping style)- straight braid, no leader
4"-5" soft plastic swimbaits (rigged on either a weighted swimbait hook or on a Eye Strike jig head)- 3’-4’ of 10lb-14lb test fluorocarbon (Sunline) leader
Shallow-running crankbaits (typically thrown on a bait casting reel)- straight fluorocarbon 17lb-20lb test
Bottom bouncing various Z-Man soft plastics (typically rigged on Eye Strike jig heads)- Braid main line (12lb-16lb test) with a 3’-4’ fluorocarbon leader (10lb-14lb test)If the water is dirty and/or has some color to it, I don’t used a leader at all and go straight braid.
Not saying my way is the best way. It’s simply my way and it works for me.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
198 CC Tidewater
I attach my leader to the braid with the Alberto knot. The only time I use a swivel of some sort to connect my leader to my main line is if I’m fishing a Carolina rig, a drop shot rig or a weightless fluke/floating worm rig. Other than those three instances, I never use a swivel, but that’s just my personal preference.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
I use a simple triple surgeons knot (3 overhand loops). I’m using 10 lb PowerPro braid and usually 15 lb mono. Make sure you pull hard on the knot to test it as if its not snugged down it will fail. If snugged its a super strong knot.
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207
www.eyestrikefishing.com #predatorsstriketheeye
And don’t forget to “lubricate” the knot before cinching it tight.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
quote:
Originally posted by bangstickAnd don’t forget to “lubricate” the knot before cinching it tight.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
Best advice here! Braid, mono, or flouro… lube em’ all
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
Appreciate it - thought I may be doing it wrong by using barrel swivel. Now I know!
198 CC Tidewater
I wouldn’t say you’re doing it wrong. For me, when you use a swivel, you have to tie two knots so you have two connection points that are susceptible to breaking or failing. By tying a knot to connect your leader to your main line, you only have one so you’ve essentially reduced your chance of breaking or failing by half. Another benefit of tying a knot to connect your leader and main line versus using a swivel is I can run a longer leader and still reel the knot through the rod guides and then make a cast without the knot getting hung up in the guides. Even with a small swivel that’s not the case.
That said, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. If what you do works for you, there’s no reason to change unless you simply want to experiment with new techniques.
“You don’t always know where you stand till you know that you won’t run away.” ~Slipknot
It’s not talking crap if you can back it up…and nothing can back it up better than facts.
I use an FG knot on my braid to leader connections. It’ll reel into the eyes and it’s just one less thing to buy, drop on the deck and loose. Those things are tiny and a pain to get out of the Plano box.
I have been tying #20 flouro to even my #8 braid so I’m to go pick up some #10 flouro tomorrow morning. I also smoother the Zmen with procure.
Rigging weedless has been a big help especially around the oysters. I fish mostly at low tide.