I’m hoping that Chris V or anybody else can help me. My 2013 DF 140 will turn over but won’t start. I suspected the high pressure fuel pump. I took the pump out of the VST and checked the pump. My high pressure fuel pump will not run when hooked to the electrical connections (11.7 volts) but will run when I connect it via jumpers to the battery (12.75 volts.) Is this voltage too low? It also showed .2 volts coming from the connections when the ignition switch is in the off position. I thought that I had this problem solved but apparently not. I thought that it was the ignition switch but it passed the continuity test. I’m suspecting a ground issue but have no idea where to look. I hate chasing electrical gremlins, particularly because I’m not that good at it.
11.7 will make the pump the run, but I am pretty sure that the computer turns that pump on and off.
if its a 2013, it should be covered under warranty.
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Thanks Chris V, it’s a used motor so the warranty didn’t transfer to me. In an earlier post I had described the original problem. There was a continuous alarm, not beeps that would show a code, as soon as I turned the key on but the motor ran fine. I suspected the ignition switch and sprayed it with WD40. A lot of water came out, the alarm stopped and everything seemed okay until this issue popped up. I’m praying it’s not the ECM, I’ve bought a replacement ignition switch and kill switch and will put it on this weekend. It can’t hurt and if the computer has gone bad then it might have been caused by the switch. I’ve priced a new ECM, $1600. OUCH! I’ll post this weekend my progress.
I wouldn’t use WD40 to spray electrical connections. There are specific sprays that won’t degrade the rubber/plastic connections. That’s why WD40 works on tar…on ya car.
The price we pay for electrically controlled VST tanks and ignition timing is having to have the computer program to check if they be working.
I have a 140 parts motor. I sell a lot of used parts, so if you need something let me know.
Tall Sail Marine
My DF140 just went through all this. Bad gas got in it and I’ve had to replace everything from the down tube in the gas tank to the high pressure pump. The good news is that there are Bosch and Mitsubishi fuel pumps that a savvy mechanic “can” use instead of the $600 Suzuki part. It requires a modification (Dremel) to the housing on the bottom of the HP pump to match up with the housing and some different electrical connectors. I just got mine back today, ran it for an hour in fresh water lake and it’s doing great now… bill was $400 total to replace the HP Pump and VST related housings. If you are willing to drag it to the Columbia area, I’ll share his name with you.
One thing you can do is run some ether in the front snorkel and see if it runs for a second or two. If so, your ECM is probably ok. If you cannot hear your HP pump turn on when you hit the ignition switch, your HP pump is not working as was the case for mine due to the shellac from the gas.
Another tip… once you get your DF140 going, run it for 15 mins minimum each week. Actually any gas motor would benefit by doing this.
Capt. Garry Coats
Folly Beach & CHS
@DolphinChartersSC
I got it running and everything ran fine. Turned it off and when I went to restart it, it blew the 60 amp main fuse. The saga continues…
you need to start ohm testing the harness against itself and to ground
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Problem solved, grandson connected one of the batteries backwards:frowning_face: A trip to Beaufort Auto Electric and $515 later, three switches replaced and I’m back in business. Just glad more damage wasn’t done.