You guys have always bailed me out in the past and now I need your help again. The T-Top on my Key West had a brush with a low hanging branch, the T-Top was not dammaged but it did pull the self tapping screws out of the floor. Question is can I fix it properly without removing the T-Top and if so what method would give me the strongest repair? Ther is no access to get under the floor where the T-Top mounts.
2020 CC Key West
Mako 243 W/Twin Suzuki DF 175’s
PM, Cracker Larry, he’ll show you and tell you everything you need to know!
PM received and replied to. I’ve got to see it, waiting for pictures.
quote:
. Question is can I fix it properly without removing the T-Top
Almost certainly not. It will have to be raised a couple of feet at least, to allow tool room under each leg. Where is the boat located?
Who in heck would screw a T-top to the deck with self tapping screws to start with[:0] More than you think.
Does the top also connect to the console, or just the deck? Is the console damaged too?
Need more info.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Sent you a PM the boat is located in Adams Run 20 miles west of Edisto beach and 10 miles south of Ravenel
2020 CC Key West
Mako 243 W/Twin Suzuki DF 175’s
Got your pictures, here they are…
That’s ugly. The top has to be raised enough to make working room under the legs.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
How I would repair it is to raise the top out of the way. Drill all holes out to twice over size and clean up the funk. I’d probably drill those about 5/8" Then pour 2 part expanding foam into all the holes, to fill any voids and create a solid mold to work with. Then re-drill the foam as deep as you can, but don’t drill thru the bottom [:0]
Now chuck a stout allen wrench into a drill motor and route out the foam under the deck to form a collar about an inch wide and deep. If you do a search, I’ve explained this all here before with pictures.
What you want to achieve is a cross section that looks like this…
Using your new foam molds shaped, pour in thickened marine epoxy and set bolts, nuts, and washers into it. When the epoxy cures, the next time you hit a tree it will trash the top and not the deck.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Capt. Larry thanks for the guidance not what I wanted to hear but it is what I needed tohear to fix it right since I do go offshore with the boat every now and then. I am not sure that I have a clear understanding of the method to do this. Do I set the bolt and nut in the epoxy then come back and unscrew the bolt from the nut, put the top down and screw the bolt back into the nut set in epoxy, or do I put the bolt through the tee top with the nut on the bottom then lower the top to the floor and push the bolt down throgh the epoxy ( seems I would not have enough working time) or use a stud with a nut and lower the Top onto the stud and then put the nut on?
2020 CC Key West
Mako 243 W/Twin Suzuki DF 175’s
Glad you asked that question.
I first use hex head sacrificial bolts with a release agent on them, with washers and nuts attached. Same thread size as the finish bolts will be. Usually 1/4-20.They are hex head so I can remove them with a socket wrench after the epoxy cures, leaving the nut, washer and a solid threaded hole. Then replace them with 1/4" oval head machine screws of the same length. Seal with 5200.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Capt. Larry
Thanks that all makes since to me now. Will I find the material at West Marine or will I have to order it, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain all of this.
2020 CC Key West
Mako 243 W/Twin Suzuki DF 175’s
Larry what do you use as the release agent, Something like vaseline:question:
I usually use a true release agent made for epoxy work. I think it’s called PVA or something like that. I’ve also used a light coat of vaseline, silicone grease, other stuff, almost anything will work.
West Marine should have everything you need.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thank you friend! I’ll keep that in mind for when I screw my boat up![:0]
Shouldn’t the nut/washer be right at the bottom of the epoxy? Otherwise, the washer could pull through the foam until it gets to the epoxy plug. Maybe I am looking at this wrong.
spec
1980 Skandia 21 w/ '93 JohnRude 150 gas drinker
The nut and washer is in the epoxy. The foam is just a mold for the epoxy.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
My bad. I missed the part about redrilling after the foam was poured and the collar was cut with the allen wrench.
I did this allen wrench/epoxy trick on my new foam filled transom when mounting my motor, but I was able to drill all the way through and put the nut and washer on the outside.
spec
1980 Skandia 21 w/ '93 JohnRude 150 gas drinker