got an 18ft bay boat and currently have a 1999 130 Honda outboard with around 300 hours. The boat was repowered a few years ago with the 4stroke and to keep the boat from bouncin like heck i gotta keep my tabs all the way down. i am thinkin of repowering it with either a HPDI or ETEC. 130-175hp.
question i have is what would you think my motor would be worth if i put it on craigslist. i would include all rigging, gages etc.
would like to trade it for a 2stroke in similar value if at all possible.
Lower the motor two holes and put a four blade prop on it. Lot cheaper and twice the results. I was gonna do that to my 24 foot proline and twin 150’s. After i lowered the motors and gained two miles an hour top end because i could actually trim it without it bouncin i didnt even need the four bladers. Boat rides like a totally different one. Could only imagine what the four blade lift would do.
motor is as low as it can be mounted. in a perfect world, i would like to have someone thats got a good running 2stroke and wants a 4stroke that would trade straght up. i would pay for hangin the motors on each boat if there was a price difference.
“The amount of money I’ll be makin would hurt your parents feelings. Remember the class where I taught you all how to make it rain? That’s what I’ll be doin every night, dollar…dollar…bills y’all.”
from what you are describing, it sounds like the motor is mounted actually to LOW on the transom. bow porpoising usually happens when the motor has to much leverage, and thats from it being to low in the water.
I would not repower since you have a very economical/reliable engine and there are things that can be done that will be less expensive, easier, and more effective.
Chris V is on target with the mounting height. Changing props can also have a dramitic difference. Sounds like a prop with more stern lift would serve you well. Generally the more rake a prop has the more bow lift it has. Rake is how much the blade are swept back from the root to the tip. Props that have blades that are straighter will have more stern lift.
There are also other things that can be done to compensate for the added weight of the 4-stroke. Install larger tabs, move the battery(ies) forward into the console if not already and possible, and add ballast like lead to the anchor locker to adjust static trim. It doesn’t take much ballast in the bow to counter act weight in the stern because the longitudinal center of bouyancy is usually closer to the stern. The LCB is basically the fulcrum point. Its like having a see-saw with one long side (bow) and one short (stern). So if you add 50 extra pounds in the stern it may only take 25 pounds in the bow to balance it out.
I agree w/ Chris and Hairball…Raise the motor, check your RPM’s, see if prop is still the correct pitch/size for weight and RPM’s after Non-porposing is attained.
if you need weight up front, put a trolling motor on it(if you’re going to add weight, it might as well be usefull), if you allready have one, move the batteries fwd.