Tilt/Trim Motor Replacement

Okay, the time has come to replace my tilt/trim motor as it is badly rusted and I don’t want it failing me on the water. This is on a 2003 Yamaha 70 TLRB. I have a couple of questions for you experts.

  1. Is there a way to get to the back screw without pulling the motor?
    If so, how? I have tried and simply cannot get to it.

  2. If I have to pull the motor (which I have never done), other than
    supporting the motor, is there anything else I should know?

  3. I see some type of sealant/adhesive around all the bolts. What
    type/kind do I need to use when I reinstall the motor?

If there is any other wisdom you have, please share. This will be a first for me.

Thanks!

I don’t have an answer for 1. or 2. But I would think 3M 5200 marine sealant for the bolt holes.

And if your anything like me, have a box of band aids & a tube of Neosporin handy. Also 911 on speed dial. :smiley:

Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069

I looked at my 70 Yammi and it seems like the motor will need to come off to get to that rear screw.

Pulling the engine is easy. Just remove the cowling and there is a lifting ring on top of the power head. Hook it to an engine hoist or come-a-long attached to an overhead beam. Don’t try to man handle it. Put a little tension on it and remove the bolts. You just need to swing the motor out a little from the transom, so no need to disconnect steering or cables. Leave it all attached and just let it hang.

Like Bob said, 5200 on the bolts.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats

“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose

D I replaced mine (2003 yam 60).It was rusted bad and I ended up ripping off the old unit while it was in place.I then loosened the motor mounts and had access to the back screw.It wasnt that hard to re-install the back screw when putting the new unit on.

I have been able to get to mine without removing the motor. You will need to raise the motor and lock it in place. Next remove the pin from the lift cylinder on the motor. Remove the 4 side mounting bolts that hold the lift assembly. This should allow you to tilt the trim unit out far enough to get a socket on the rear bolt.

Chris V replaced mine last summer, it required remove and reset of the motor. They said they had to press the bracket pin out…I understand it was a PITA.


“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad

Equipment:
190cc Sea Pro w/130 Johnson
1- 18 year old ( has decided being with parents isn’t cool)
1 - 15 year old (still does not mind hanging with the 'rents)
1 - wife (The Warden)

ECFC

Thanks guys. The job is on my list for next weekend. Wow Claim, I thought mine looked bad!

Replaced one on a Suzuki dt40 that looked like yours. Amazing what salt water will do.

quote:
Originally posted by DFreedom

Thanks guys. The job is on my list for next weekend. Wow Claim, I thought mine looked bad!


Har. :smiley: I’d been watching it and had it looked at several times and was told it had enough steel to be good to go. When my boat trailer broke itself, I hyper-rev’d to back off my trailer and the prop-wash killed the trim motor once and for all. Last summer was more than “break out a thousand”.

I hit it with the water hose a little more than I used to.


“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad

Equipment:
190cc Sea Pro w/130 Johnson
1- 18 year old ( has decided being with parents isn’t cool)
1 - 15 year old (still does not mind hanging with the 'rents)
1 - wife (The Warden)

ECFC

I was able to get to the screw on my yam 115 by simply loosing the mounting bolts and sliding the motor back about 1/2 " with a large screw driver far enough to get the job done. I was luck the nuts were on the outside and were long enough!