Trailer brakes

The brakes on my trailer lasted about two years. And that was with a good flushing each time they were used. At the end they were rusted chunks that were a pain to free up when I needed the trailer. I finaly took them off and dumped them. My boat stays on a lift so I don’t need the triler that often. Now comes the rub, and where I need ya’lls help. We like to go down to Fla. each summer. Question; does Florida require brakes on a trailer hauling a 22’ boat? If so, I have heard of stainless steel brakes, are they worth the $1200 price tag or am I just wasting more money?

Thanks in advance!

Florida does require brakes on one that large if it’s a tamdem. I have been checked down there several times. Also make sure there is some type of transom strap or tie downs.

Daggit! I was expecting that was the situation down there. Now I got to try and find some brakes that can last more than 30 mins. near salt water. Anybody got any suggestions.

Thanks

ZX

Plead ignorance if you get stopped :smiley: Police in South Florida have got a lot more to worry about than somebody’s trailer brakes.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Small craft surveying and repair

I don’t need to plead, I am a natural! I have found some brakes by an outfit called Tie Down that claim to be “salt resistant” whatever that means. They want $140 per wheel for new hubs, bearings, disk and calipers plus $30 postage for two sets. They claim they are all stainless and aluminum. I am going to give them a try. If they don’t hold up I plan to donate them to the NMFS.

ZX

Hit the Fl line about 11PM and make the drive a night! Harder for them to see and not as much traffic! Make sure you stay in the right hand lane and your lights are working.

Corbin’s in N Chas if you do get them.

quote:
Originally posted by tanksgt

…They want $140 per wheel for new hubs, bearings, disk and calipers plus $30 postage for two sets.


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Do you need new hubs and bearings? If you already had brakes, then you should just need rotors, calipers, and pads. The rotors should just slip over the lug nut studs like a lot of automotive ones do. Replace the old calipers with the new ones, new break pads, bleed them and you should be done. I just removed mine because of the reasons you mentioned. I capped the lines and removed everything else. The calipers were aluminum and corroded and the pistons were carbon and they were rusted and locked up. The rotors were carbon. If you do decide to buy new, make sure that there are no carbon parts or you will be back in the same boat(pun intended). If you have ‘enough’ tow vehicle to stop the trailer, then I would not replace them. My 2 cents.

Ranger Bay 2000
Yamaha F150

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