I’m less than pleased with the way my boat loads & unloads from the trailer. I have an older (1987) 16" Lund on a ShoreLandr trailer, with rollers. The bow of the boat hits on the trailer going on & coming off unless the trailer is completely submerged, with the rear tires of my truck in the water. I end up getting wet no matter what. I want to be able to pull down to the ramp, get in the boat and motor off. The way it is now, I have to balance out on the tongue, push the boat off and jump on the bow(over & around the trolling motor). At 62, I’m getting too old for that s**t. I’ve tried moving the fwd. roller back, but I can’t go any further without raising the bow higher. I was thing about changing to bunks, but I wanted to get some ideas from you guys.
Thanks in advance.
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
Bob,
I’m no guru, but I would think that bunks with the teflon sliders would be exactly what you want. The bunks will keep the boat from hitting the trailer and the teflon will let the boat slide off easy peasy. Just need to make sure you don’t unlock your winch before its in the water because the boat will slide right off (and on to ramp) if you don’t.
You really should change to bunks and make sure they extend past transom. Aluminum boats are prone to developing hook from improper support, and hook will make your bow plow. By the way my buddy really liked the rod holder you made for the bulkhead in his jon boat this Christmas. I bought some trailer skids for the bunks on my jon boat and loading and launch is a breeze. I too am past that 60 number and look for anything to make it easy.
Now I’ve just got to find the time to do it. Side jobs are starting to book up, also spring weather chores are back, so my week ends are getting full.
Has anyone done this kind of swap? Since I’ve never done it, do you think it could be done in a day by a dumb old welder?
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
A word of caution…dont use pressure treated wood as bunks for an aluminum boat. Use either non PT or trexdexk of on e sort or another…over time the acid in the PT WILL degrade the aluminum and cause the aluminum to become thin and brittle…even with the carpet on the bunks…using non PT will defiantly be less expensive but if you plan on keeping the boat and trailer a while ypu will have to replace the bunks every few years due to rot…the synthetic/polymer boards are expensive bit do it one time and never have to worry…
Bob, I redid my trailer last year. I got the all galvanized parts I needed, and even my bunks, from Westco in W Columbia and they were real helpful with advice on what to do.
I tried reversing the front roller and it raises the bow quite a bit & the boat still hits in the same area. Adding the extra roller is another thing I’ve thought about, or some kind of “V” pad to keep the boat from hitting.
Tim, as soon as I figure out what I’m going to do, I’ll be giving Westco a call. I’ve also thought about bringing them the whole rig & letting them do it.(maybe even a new coat of paint:smiley:)
Thanks for all the replies.
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
bob
if you have all the parts and the boat off the trailer, it can be done in about 1-2 hours
you will need a couple wrenches and an angle grinder with a cutting wheel
Hard to beat bunks on the rear of the trailer, might even try double at the very rear. Be careful with the teflon sticks, I dropped my boat on the ramp the first time after I installed mine! Useto have to back mt tra in a long way to launch the boat but not now with the sticks,I dont unhook the winch rope now till it in the water
bob
if you have all the parts and the boat off the trailer, it can be done in about 1-2 hours
you will need a couple wrenches and an angle grinder with a cutting wheel
put the bunks where the current supports are located
the angle grinder is to remove the rusted u-bolts
once you get the boat back on the trailer, you can adjust the bunks
Happybob,
You may want to check Craigslist for a used trailer already set up with bunks. Yours looks like it already has a good bit of rust on the frame. How’s your axle look? Rebuilding trailers exposed to salt is a royal pain. The bolt heads will snap off if they don’t round out in a socket. Pretty much every bolt will need to be cut with the grinder. I usually do what one other already suggested. Buy a used one in better shape and sell yours on Craigslist after. You’ll probably only invest about 200 after yours is sold. Those Lunds are tough. That thing will probably last longer than 10 more trailers. Good luck with it.
I’m seriously thinking about just biting the bullet & buying new. That way I’m not buying someone else’s problem off of craigslist or throwing $$$ into mine. I mean this trailer is in fair shape, but needs to be changed to bunks, sandblasted & painted, next thing I know, it’ll need new springs or a cross member cracks or breaks.
If I can get a decent one on CL for $700, why not spend a few hundred more and get a new one that’s set up for my boat? It doesn’t need lights, tongue jack or guide ons, I can do all that.
I’m calling Wesco Monday morning & see what they can do for me. It’s worth a shot.
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
