Trailer Spring Bolts and Strap Hanger Question

Replaced broken springs today on my trailer. Noticed all the bolts are plain old 1/2" galvanized (see drawing). These are the stock bolts that came with this trailer, which is only 3 years old. It is a Venture aluminum trailer.

QUESTIONS:

  • Should I be using a shackle style bolt (with castle nut or cotter pin)?

  • If these bolts are “okay”, how tight should each be?

  • Again, if these bolts are okay, should I just spray some teflon grease on the shackle and other pivot points?

Thanks in advance.

JI

Currently all bolts are pretty tight, which is how I found them.

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115

Pungo 120

I used stainless bolts and use lock nuts,also use marine grease at the pivot points.Tighten till they are good and snug…they need to move freely but with no side to side movement

also use a washer at the nut and bolt head …helps keep the nut from loosening

26’ Twinvee Cat
Twin Suzuki 175’s
www.creeksidemetalworks.com

I use these and they’ll last longer than I’ll keep a boat.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_326572_326572

quote:
Originally posted by Loosewire

I use these and they’ll last longer than I’ll keep a boat.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_326572_326572


What keeps the nut from backing off?

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115

Pungo 120
quote:
Originally posted by Capt Ed

I used stainless bolts and use lock nuts,also use marine grease at the pivot points.Tighten till they are good and snug…they need to move freely but with no side to side movement also use a washer at the nut and bolt head …helps keep the nut from loosening


When you say lock nuts, are you talking about the ones with nylon inside (aircraft nuts), or casle nuts?

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115

Pungo 120
quote:
Originally posted by JimIslander

[quote]Originally posted by Capt Ed

I used stainless bolts and use lock nuts,also use marine grease at the pivot points.Tighten till they are good and snug…they need to move freely but with no side to side movement also use a washer at the nut and bolt head …helps keep the nut from loosening


When you say lock nuts, are you talking about the ones with nylon inside (aircraft nuts), or casle nuts?

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115





nylon lock nuts.... available at hardware stores..castle nuts aren't needed because the spring/shackle pivots on the bolt..the bolt should never move to loosen the nut...just grease well when installing.. I've pulled trailers 10's of thousands of miles and never had a spring bolt come loose 


26' Twinvee Cat
Twin Suzuki 175's
www.creeksidemetalworks.com
quote:
Originally posted by Capt Ed
quote:
Originally posted by JimIslander

[quote]Originally posted by Capt Ed

I used stainless bolts and use lock nuts,also use marine grease at the pivot points.Tighten till they are good and snug…they need to move freely but with no side to side movement also use a washer at the nut and bolt head …helps keep the nut from loosening


When you say lock nuts, are you talking about the ones with nylon inside (aircraft nuts), or casle nuts?

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115





nylon lock nuts.... available at hardware stores..castle nuts aren't needed because the spring/shackle pivots on the bolt..the bolt should never move to loosen the nut...just grease well when installing.. I've pulled trailers 10's of thousands of miles and never had a spring bolt come loose.
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Very cool, Captain. Thanks!

Tidewater 196DC
Yamaha F115

Pungo 120