I have a '93 High Tide Super V that needs a little transom repair. It appears to be in solid shape, all the areas around the holes from the mounting bolts seem fine not rot. The only portion which seems damaged is the notch on the top of the transom from the motor being trimmed all the way up on it. I was thinking of just cutting out the entire top section of the transom where it was transformed from a 15" into a 20" transom and replacing that with either marine plywood or some for of composite and then fiberglassing over that. If I am doing this much would it be beneficial to just redo the entire transom? Should I use composite of marine plywood?
That transom is shot, you should replace it all if you are going to do anything.
Leave the outer skin intact and remove the inner skin and core. I’d use 2 layers of 3/4 marine mahogany, then a few of layers of 1708 cloth on the inside.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair
That transom is shot, you should replace it all if you are going to do anything.
Leave the outer skin intact and remove the inner skin and core. I’d use 2 layers of 3/4 marine mahogany, then a few of layers of 1708 cloth on the inside.
Since you suggest doing that, would it also be worth the time to rip up the floor and remove all the foam? Then replace both if I suspect the foam to be full of water?
I have a 92 Super V and found exactly what you have. I started digging deeper and found the transom was rotten, the floor was shot, and the stringers not in good shape and the foam was sopping wet. She is gutted now, and after I replaced the transom, I am now on to the stringers.
In other words, you may have a larger project on your hands than originally thought.
You can either approach it from the inboard side or outboard side. To go at it from inboard, you will have to cut out the deck. If your stringers and deck are compromised back there, this is obviously the way you’ll want to go. Leave the outer shell to build back to, and it will save you all the finish work on the outside of the hull.
If you go wood, you need to go with premium stuff like cracker Larry said… Wood done perfectly is best. Composite done decently will outlast most wood jobs. Coosa blue water or a 20lb or more density Penske board or similar will all do great. You may be able to get it done with 1" material depending on what hp and weight motor you need to hang on it.
Cover the piece of core you cut out for the entire transom with glass outside the boat then clamp it in against the prepped shell you left in place with thickened putty troweled in between. Then fillet the corners and edges with putty and tab the new transom in with narrow strips of glass overlapped with strips of slightly wider strips. You can replace the rear sections of stringer core with the same material and fillet and tab to the transom and old stringer sections you left in.
I have a 92 Super V and found exactly what you have. I started digging deeper and found the transom was rotten, the floor was shot, and the stringers not in good shape and the foam was sopping wet. She is gutted now, and after I replaced the transom, I am now on to the stringers.
In other words, you may have a larger project on your hands than originally thought.
It’s definitely the size project I thought it would be (the motor is off and being rebuilt) but I welcome the challenge and learning new skills. I will be following your project as you move along emptypockets.
Should I tackle the removal of the inner transom skin and the floor at the same time? Can the caps be left on or do they need to be removed during this process
You can either approach it from the inboard side or outboard side. To go at it from inboard, you will have to cut out the deck. If your stringers and deck are compromised back there, this is obviously the way you’ll want to go. Leave the outer shell to build back to, and it will save you all the finish work on the outside of the hull.
If you go wood, you need to go with premium stuff like cracker Larry said… Wood done perfectly is best. Composite done decently will outlast most wood jobs. Coosa blue water or a 20lb or more density Penske board or similar will all do great. You may be able to get it done with 1" material depending on what hp and weight motor you need to hang on it.
Cover the piece of core you cut out for the entire transom with glass outside the boat then clamp it in against the prepped shell you left in place with thickened putty troweled in between. Then fillet the corners and edges with putty and tab the new transom in with narrow strips of glass overlapped with strips of slightly wider strips. You can replace the rear sections of stringer core with the same material and fillet and tab to the transom and old stringer sections you left in.
Doing it from the inside seems like the best idea from how you describe it. I’m thinking the transom will need to be a bit thicker than 1" as it will need to hold a 70 2 stroke on the back of it which weighs approx 250lbs and a jack plate.
From the inside is always the best way to replace a transom. It will be stronger and much easier to fair.
You have to cut the sole back far enough to get in there and work, usually a couple of feet, and you have to cut a section of the stringers out where they meet the transom. This will give you a good idea of the condition of the deck, stringers and the foam. Some of the cap will probably have to come off too. It’s hard to tell from the pictures. Can you take a couple more showing the boat deck overall? A little smaller size on the pics would be good too.
If you are going to repair any of it, you should access the condition of all of it and then decide if it is worth the repair. Boats are almost always uglier than you think when you tear into them and one thing leads to another. You can probably plan on everything you can’t see needing replacing.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair
