My trim/tilt motor is getting flaky. 'Sometimes won’t spin. A sharp whack with a tool will ‘wake’ it up. It’s getting 12.8 volts. So, time to replace the original 14 year old motor. I hope the replacement lasts 14 years.
The prices for OEM parts is SURPRISING! I can find two manufacturers of other options, SIERRA (which is Teleflex) and ARCO.
Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about either name? I use the SIERRA fuel filters without complaint.
The arco part number is 6220. OMC number is 0434795. I’m having trouble getting one of the mounting screws out of the trim/tilt manifold. Two of them came out cleanly. The third is putting up a fight. First, even with penetrating oil and a little gentle heat, I wrung it off. Then, tried to drill it out and use a screw extractor with no luck. (Didn’t think it would work, but, had to try.) I think my last attempt will be to drill the entire thing out and re-tap the hole/use the next size up screw/bolt. If I get that to work, I’ll need a motor. If I can’t get it out reasonably cleanly, I may decide the thing has reached the end of its service life and go for a new or refurb’d assembly. Either way, I’ll get in touch when I get to that point.
I hate working with saltwater soaked fasteners that haven’t moved in a decade.
It may be too late now, but I had to change out the trim/tilt motor on an old OMC I used to have and ran into the same problem. After many PB Blaster/torch and cussing sessions in the yard, I was left with one screw that I had wrung the head off of. Believe it or not, the mounting surface of the original motor is plastic or some sort of composite material. I found that by gently tapping the motor with a wrench, you can bust it into many pieces which are easily removed from the manifold. That leaves you with a pretty good portion of the screw shaft exposed, enough to get a pair of vise grips on. It may not work, but it’s worth a try before you try to tap that lovely cast aluminum. I can’t say how relieved I was to get that thing out…all day to remove three screws and thirty minutes to install the new motor and have everything back together. What a pain in the a#s. Worst part was, I ordered the motor off of Ebay and it crapped out about five trips later. It was much easier to replace the second time though.
It may be too late now, but I had to change out the trim/tilt motor on an old OMC I used to have and ran into the same problem. After many PB Blaster/torch and cussing sessions in the yard, I was left with one screw that I had wrung the head off of. Believe it or not, the mounting surface of the original motor is plastic or some sort of composite material. I found that by gently tapping the motor with a wrench, you can bust it into many pieces which are easily removed from the manifold. That leaves you with a pretty good portion of the screw shaft exposed, enough to get a pair of vise grips on. It may not work, but it’s worth a try before you try to tap that lovely cast aluminum. I can’t say how relieved I was to get that thing out…all day to remove three screws and thirty minutes to install the new motor and have everything back together. What a pain in the a#s. Worst part was, I ordered the motor off of Ebay and it crapped out about five trips later. It was much easier to replace the second time though.
16’ tincan/18’parker w/ smoke blowin Johnsons
Yep. I resorted to the same trick. With 2 bolts out, I was able to use a narrow chisel to excavate the stuck bolt from the base of the motor which, as you said, leaves the bolt sticking up in the air. I grabbed the head of the bolt with a pair of vise grips, applied another dosing of PB Blaster, heated it a little with a propane torch and promptly twisted the head off of the bolt. Reset the vise grips on the remainder of the bolt and proceeded more cautiously. More PB Blaster… more heat (but, hopefully, not so much as to damage other parts in the hydraulics), more gentle pressure… and it turned a little. Clockwise 1 degree. Counter clockwise 1 degree. CW 2. CCW 2. I thought I was home free. CW 3
