Trtailer Light

I replaced the pipe lights on my aluminum trailer with low profile leds mounted with aluminum brackets to the trailer. I did not run a new harness - just connected the new lights…as I have done many times before. I gounded the lights (white wire) to the mounting screw on the aluminum bracket that is bolted to the aluminum I beam of the trailer. All conncetions appear to be good. Have tail lights but no brake or turn signal on either side.

The lights are sealed. Any suggeestions on what the problem might be and how best to troubleshoot would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Use a multimeter and check if the signal is reaching the new light. If it is then the light or connection is your problem. If you don’t get a signal there check the both sides of the plug. If you don’t have a multimeter you can get one of these cheap to test for current.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-Conduct-Tite-electrical-multi-tester/_/N-26lp?itemIdentifier=69335&_requestid=786049

Wellcraft V-20 sportfish with a 200 Evinrude

Even though you said the ground is good I would double/triple Check the grounds at the lights… LEDS will NOT hardly work without a really good ground…I trouble shot mine for over 2 hrs until I found a ground that I thought was good at first…

“All fisherman lie. And if they say otherwise, then they’re lying”

“Sea~N~Stripes”
21’ Hewes Craft Custom
115 Evinrude

When you put the mult-meter on it - positive goes to releavant green or brown wire and ground on meter goes to ground connection - correct?

I meant to post this in boat/motors. Not only do I now know about trialer lights but I don’t know how to move a post to anothe forum as well

Huuummmmmmmmmmm … have tail but no brake or turn …

Presuming the following:

(1) The previous lights worked …

(2) The new lights are wired correctly …

Yellow(1) = Left turn
Black(2) = Reverse
White(3) = Ground
Green (4) = Right turn
Blue(5) = Trailer Brakes
Red(6) = Brakes
Brown(7) = Tail, clearance, side marker

(3) There are no manufacturer defects …

Since there is only 1 ground wire running down each side of the trailer and if the running lights work on each side then the ground should be good …

Check your fuses in the vehicle … if your vehicle can pre-rigged with a trailering system then there may be separate fuses for the trailer lighting …

I have a trailer plug that has little red lights next to each wire on the connector … if the red light is lit when I plug it in then the connection from the vehicle is good and I know at a glance that the issue is on the trailer

Otherwise the standard 4/5 prong flat is as follows:

White = Ground
Brown = Tail, clearance, side marker
Yellow = Left Turn
Green = Right Turn
Blue = Brakes (optional)

The standard 7 prong round:

Yellow(1) = Left turn
Black(2) = Reverse
White(3) = Ground
Green (4) = Right turn
Blue(5) = Trailer Brakes
Red(6) = Brakes
Brown(7) = Tail, clearance, side marker

I would start with the fuses, then the connectors and then work my way out from there

… it’s my Wife’s fault we HAVE to fish !!!

2005 Sea Pro 2100cc / Yamaha 150hp 4-Stroke

quote:
Originally posted by rockbottom3

When you put the mult-meter on it - positive goes to releavant green or brown wire and ground on meter goes to ground connection - correct?

I meant to post this in boat/motors. Not only do I now know about trialer lights but I don’t know how to move a post to anothe forum as well


Again, presuming the wiring is correct and it’s not a bad fuse or connector, then I’d tap the trailer frame itself for ground …

Check continuity from your White wire to the trailer frame 1st to make sure you have ground all the way through - otherwise you may not have ground connections in certain devices that use the mounting screws as the ground connection (side markers are like this) …

If you have the ability use pigtails to test the lights themselves with a 12v battery … With that same 12v battery and the pigtails run check the connections at the trailer connector first and then work towards the back of the trailer …

Eliminate as much as possible before having to go into the wires themselves

LED’s require a special flasher as well. I think most modern cars have this already, or if you custom added a trailer pigtail to your car, it should have a special box that allows the use of LED’s.

When I put LED’s in my old 40 year old Land Cruiser, I had to change the flasher on the fuse panel. When I added my own pigtail to the Mercedes, I had to buy a special box with wiring in order to use LED tail lights.

May not be your case, but figured I would mention it in case.

“Banana Pants”
Indigo Bay 170
90 Johnson

Wilderness Ride 115

My money would be on the fuse in the vehicle. I’ve had to change a couple in my 2011 Sierra to get a trailer turn signal/brake light working again. Don’t know what your tow vehicle is though…

Xpress HB-22
175 Yammy Jammer