Our oldest son lives/works in Ladson. Our youngest went down to visit for a few days and when he got ready to come home this afternoon, his car would not start. They eventually got it started and he is almost home so I’m pretty sure it is a bad battery (this heat ain’t helping).
Before it is needed, I thought I’d reach out for some suggestions for someplace trustworthy my son could take his car if/when needed. He went to CofC and once we used a place over on Coleman Blvd that worked out well but, that is too far from Ladson. Any suggestions/recommendations for a decent shop in the Ladson/N. Charleston area would be appreciated.
There is a place in Goose Creek Charleston mag and wheel that has done lots of work for me at a very reasonable price. BUT They ask me to get the parts and they charge me for the labor. The owners name is Bruce nice guy and they don’t bs you on the hourly labor I’ve watched my car go in at 12 , come out at 1:30 and they bill me for 1.5 hours. Many places charge a price per hour and a full hour price forr any part of an hour. Easy walk to food places they are near the goodwill store
Wish I could help recomend a place. If you are thinking a battery issue, many of the local auto parts stores can do a simple battery/ charging system check for free. Or they used to???
Same here, I have a 95 GMC Sierra with 215k that’s giving me grief, been to 3 different shade tree mechanics on the island before taking it to Sheaf’s Automotive on 17. After new fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and button, fuel pump it’s headed back to Sheaf’s again tomorrow and I’m already down $770. Sheaf’s is charging more for labor per hour because of the age of the vehicle.
I don’t mind paying for repairs as long as they’re done right, just hate when people don’t know what it is that’s wrong and try to solve it by new parts. The truck is really only valuable to me and that’s a problem that can’t be fixed.
It stalls at times while driving with or without the cruise control which is bad because of vacuum brakes. It won’t start back up unless I let it sit for about 10 minutes otherwise it kills the battery if I crank it too many times
sounds like it’s vapor locking, That truck should be throttle body injection. Does it seem to be worse when it’s hot? Some times a simple spacer plate under the throttle body can help???
It is also OBD 1 rather than 2. ( 1996 was first obd2) Not many shops still have diagnostic hook up for it.
I’ve got a good friend that is chevy oriented, if I can get ahold of him I’ll ask about it.
Yeah, no problems with his car right now but, I wanted to find a place or two if he needs it rather than wait until something breaks and then having to rush and find a place and hope for the best. I have a great place here in Columbia but, that doesn’t help my son in Ladson.
You could have obd 2 if later 1995 in the transition??? Sorry if I’ve misinformed you. I do know all 1996 and up are OBD2. I’d hate to give you miss information.
No Fred you’re right again! I went out to try and get you a code but it’s a one 1 plug on the truck. I must have been plugging it to the 05 Volvo XC90 the deer took out in March of 21. Replaced it with a Pilot and got the 0% mortgage option on it with a warranty cuz them dang things are awfully expensive! Dude says the radio brain thing with the camera was 12k to replace I said give me that warranty and I ain’t a warranty guy.