Is permatex(aircraft grade) a good seal for a vst tank? I’m not digging out the old rubber gasket…my reasons…thoughts.
Dressing & Flange Sealant Category: Gasket SealantsSpecially formulated for superior fluid resistance, this polyester urethane based gasketing compound withstands extreme temperature changes without hardening. Its non-setting, non-hardening character remains tacky even with rapid changes in temperature, enabling repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Suitable as either a gasket maker or dressing, PermaShield™ seals surface imperfections between metal parts and is ideal in high performance applications. With an operating temperature range of -60° to 500°F (-50° to 260°C), this compound resists common engine fluids, including oil, gasoline, ethanol, water and anti-freeze and prevents contamination from moisture and dust - See more at: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/#sthash.rEmVtcGb.dpuf
Seems to be used for that exactly…
Fishing Nerd
“you win some, you lose some…but nothing beats getting some!”
vst area is not a “flange”
no way we would ever use a sealant like that in that area.
vst seals with an O-ring, not a gasket
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quote:Thanks for the input. The "square" O ring was probably from 1999 and was part of the tank as in corroded/brittle where it sits. I'm shade tree trained...so the permatex worked for the purpose. The tank pumps great...only problem now is when I shot water up the water pump tube...water coming out the # 3 cylinder on a 1999 DF 50 4 stroke.
Originally posted by chris Vvst area is not a “flange”
no way we would ever use a sealant like that in that area.
vst seals with an O-ring, not a gasketwww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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In your professional opinion(without a leak down test) would you be inclined to guess it’s the head gasket being blown or a stuck valve?
VALVE BEING STUCK WILL NOT ALLOW WATER IN CYLINDER
IT WILL CAUSE LOW COMPRESSION, BUT VALVE DOESNT KEEP OUT WATER
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WITH IT BEING A 1999 SUZUKI I WOULD BET THAT THE HEAD HAS CORROSION AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTOM CYLINDER
IT WILL REQUIRE A NEW HEAD TO FUNCTION
WE HAVE DONE 4 OF THEM THIS FALL
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quote:THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO REPLY. I'll let you know what I find. You got to know the story behind it though. The boat owner is 83 and become an acquired friend. An old dog of mine (PB) took him as his new owner. I come to his house(around the corner) to come get the dog who is being brushed after a bath and swimming after a boat ride. I get the dog home and it happens the next day. I tie the dog up(climbing the fence) and it breaks both their hearts. The guy starts bringing me collards/tomatoes...we become friends...time passes the dog dies and I see him on occasion but not using his boat. Storm comes 2 trees fall on his house which he bought back in the 60's and stopped his insurance...20+ grand later his life is upside down. I'd got his chain saw running, lawn mower running and he told me the boat wouldn't start and he'd paid $1000 to get it fixed 4 years ago. Motor would turn over and I traced it to the VST tank. Fired right up but no water flow...replace water pump impeller and got water in the oil... So here I sit...I could quit...never done a 4 stroke tear down but I guess I can do it. Wait till you see what the guy did with a 2 inch steel pipe. I'll be asking for help once I get the power head off...if you can make the time.
Originally posted by chris VWITH IT BEING A 1999 SUZUKI I WOULD BET THAT THE HEAD HAS CORROSION AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE BOTTOM CYLINDER
IT WILL REQUIRE A NEW HEAD TO FUNCTION
WE HAVE DONE 4 OF THEM THIS FALLwww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
WOW!
IF IT IS INDEED A HEAD, ON A 1999 50, ITS PROBABLY NOT WORTH FIXING.
YOU HAVE TO COMPLETELY PULL THE POWERHEAD TO REMOVE THE HEAD ON MOST OF THE SUZUKIS.
ITS A BIG JOB.
REPLACEMENT EMPTY HEAD IS AROUND $1500.
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Back from Grenada visiting my daughter…put 3 torsion axels on my trailer and started on my friends motor…
bolts came out with coaxing and care…underneath looks good an got my fingers crossed that it’s just the head gasket. Not using a tree limb so I guess I’m moving up.
This is what this guy made out of a 2" steel pipe and welding rods…he made all of the tools and formed the bark with rods.
I’m in awe of the detail and care he put into an ashtray…I can put a few hours in to try and save his motor if the block is ok…
Chris V, I’ll have some questions about the valve shims when I get inside tomorrow. Thanks for your input and being a sponsor for this site…I enjoy learning new things and this site has it all.
Wow! That is some unreal welding work! Very cool 
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
WOW, I cant even see a 2" pipe much less weld it, that’s amaszing! Like your portable lift.
Well, the head bolts are multi point 10mm deep well socket…(special tool per manual???). I’m sure I got one some where in a bucket of rusted sockets…I’m not looking…I can barely read the socket numbers with out a magnifying glass…stamp the bottom of the socket in large braille…
So far, everything looks good…I’ll know tomorrow after I get the socket. $52 and change for a head gasket and you gots to almost disassemble the motor…genius engineers who won’t have to fix their design. What a joke. Americans used to build simple motors with simple tolerances that just ran. Didn’t require a plethora of tools and were almost idiot proof. Today, the use of dissimilar metals, cheap casting, and complicated sensors make a $10,000 engine a poor investment. I’ll take the old junk.
And another thing…I’m doing this stool left handed:
What a PITA. You don’t appreciate your fingers until you can’t use them. Boatpoor, that lift is from Harbor Freight…I got my money out of it. You think they would design a base to slide into a trailer hitch…I should patent it and pay someone to fix Bonzos generator…
Got the socket(special tool…NOT) and took the head off:
The hole was on #3 and didn’t see any other dings. I figure it got hot or lean…CHRIS, CAN THIS BE BRAZE WELDED??? Thanks in advance.
Ya, know what you mean about the old American built motors, had a v4 Johnson that ran for ever, just mix the gas/oil right and you were ready to go! I think you should start mfg. on the hitch lift!
Happy Days: Tig welded and head milled…$150 and $75. Gasket set $120…getting it done and running is another thing.
We shall see.
Feels good to get think fixed! Good luck on the rebuild, should last another 20 years!
That is a cool ashtray!! Looks like he may have used Brass brazing rods from the color?
Love the hoist! you got the blocks under it to keep the car from squatting? Necessity is the mother of invention!
“If Bruce Jenner can keep his wiener and be called a woman, I can keep my firearms and be considered disarmed.”
quote:I asked were they brass rods and he said carbon steel rods...clear coated after polishing... The driveway sloped down and I needed a little lift. Egyptians got nothing on me except moving 2.5 ton blocks.
Originally posted by Fred67That is a cool ashtray!! Looks like he may have used Brass brazing rods from the color?
Love the hoist! you got the blocks under it to keep the car from squatting? Necessity is the mother of invention!
“If Bruce Jenner can keep his wiener and be called a woman, I can keep my firearms and be considered disarmed.”
Motor is back where it belongs. Had my boy pick it up and put it on the base. He’ll eat a bushel at the roast:
We’ll fire it up tomorrow…Bonzo, I gots the faith.