I am going to replace my impeller in a 1996 88hp evinrude. Question is, should I just buy the basic impeller and gasket kit or should I go ahead and get the entire kit with housing, impeller, rings, etc.?
The motor has not overheated and is peeing but I can tell it is not as strong as it used to be. It has been 7yrs since last replaced at Seels.
Also, is it wise to go ahead and replace the thermostats at same time?
j
“I’ve spoken my peace and counted to three”
get the housing kit
change the t-stats
just so you know going in, that motor is the second hardest motor I know of to change the thermostat.
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vget the housing kit
change the t-stats
just so you know going in, that motor is the second hardest motor I know of to change the thermostat.www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
Gotta’ ask now…what is the Hardest motor to change the thermostat on?
1996 Sunbird Spirit 170 - 112 Johnson
15’ Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro
I’m sure it’s a 112 Johnson:smiley:!
Just had mine done…it was difficult, or so the mechanic said!
1996 Sunbird Spirit 170 - 112 Johnson
15’ Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro
I agree with Chris (would be an idiot, not to). I have that motor (1995) and have done the job several times. Do the full kit. You have to pull it down most of the way just to get the impeller out. 'Might as well go a little bit deeper and do the entire thing.
The worst part of the chore for me is getting the darned shift shaft re-attached on re-assembly. That can take a few minutes, sometimes.
I second the suggestion to do the thermostats, also. You can’t do them frequently enough. At, least, I could not. I had chronic problems with mine until I took them out and left them out. I’m sure the motor runs cooler than designed which might not be ideal. But, I don’t hear the overheat buzzer due to stuck thermostats, anymore. I’d rather have to clean/replace plugs rather than thermostats. Probably not ideal, like I said, but, that’s where I’ve ended up.
17’ Henry O Hornet
26’ Palmer Scott
I doesn’t hurt to change the water pump base as well. Besides the prop shaft seal, that’s where water is going to enter the gearcase.
Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”
Native Manta Ray 14
Just changed my first water pump and it was on a 1996 Johnson 112 and I didn’t find it overly difficult. The worst part, as others have said, is reattaching the shift linkage. I sprayed all of the gear casing bolts with a penetrant, followed the Clymer and OMC instructions and it went fine.
I think that this was the first time my water pump was changed, so I bought the OMC kit which included the housing. I didn’t want to put a new impeller into a material fatigued housing, but it might have been OK.
Sammie