You talkin bout a different animal with a 200 hp 2.5l Merc. Probably doesn’t weigh much more than my V4 Johnson.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
I think I am going to have a custom 20 gallon gas tank fabricated for this boat (located under back bench seat). Who would you guys recommend for this? I found Florida Tank online. Does anyone have experience with them? I think I will ultimately have it powder coated white.
Would you recommend aluminum or stainless? There also seems to be options for the fuel pickup. Does it matter? What do you guys recommend?
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
quote:
Originally posted by pescazorroI think I am going to have a custom 20 gallon gas tank fabricated for this boat (located under back bench seat). Who would you guys recommend for this? I found Florida Tank online. Does anyone have experience with them? I think I will ultimately have it powder coated white.
Would you recommend aluminum or stainless? There also seems to be options for the fuel pickup. Does it matter? What do you guys recommend?
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
A coated aluminum tank would be fine and cheaper than stainless for sure.
RDS is who made my tank.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
you might want to go splash your hull and have 800#s of people stand on the stern and see how she floats before you go any further.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
quote:
Originally posted by Geronimoyou might want to go splash your hull and have 800#s of people stand on the stern and see how she floats before you go any further.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 JohnsonWilderness Ride 115
Please elaborate…20 gallons of gas weighs 120# and will be under bench seat approximately mid-ship…90 Yamaha weighs 370# and will be stern…I weighed hull before I started this process and it is not waterlogged…
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Sorry, when you stated back bench seat I thought you were adding a bench seat to the “back” for passengers not the standard mid-ship seat.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
I’ve been very happy with my 22 gallon Moeller plastic tank designed to go under the seat of the Montauk.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
quote:
Originally posted by GeronimoI’ve been very happy with my 22 gallon Moeller plastic tank designed to go under the seat of the Montauk.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 JohnsonWilderness Ride 115
I like itand think I will probably go this route. Is this the one you use and it fits right under the mahogany seat?
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
I’d have to dig and see if that is the one. I went off of Whalercentral to get the #. It looks like it though.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
He did say back bench. So is it gonna have 2 bench seats or one?
16’ Bonito 65 Johnson
quote:
Originally posted by carolinacootHe did say back bench. So is it gonna have 2 bench seats or one?
16’ Bonito 65 Johnson
Only one bench. If you look at the picture, I plan to place a small sit-behind fiberglass console over the forward rigging hole in floor with a traditional whaler bench behind it over the metal rigging hole. The gas line will come up thru the metal rigging hole.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Butch Cooper with Cooper Iron Works in N chuck now builds custom built fuel tanks. He has the USCG stamps and all. Nice to have a local source finally,
I found a 24 gal. alu. tank in an old boat and cut the front out of the console to make it fit. Installing it in front of the battery and 1/2 way in and out of the console, built a shelf on the top of the exposed section to hold a square cooler. I have a square plastic console from Todd. Made the balance perfect!
I hope to have my boat back from being painted by next Friday and will start the rigging. Progress photos to follow. In the meantime, need a bit more advice.
My electronic components will include the following:
-3 LED nav lights
-Bilge pump
-Lowrance
-And of course new 90 HP Yamaha
my plan is to run all of the above off of a 1050 amp DEKA marine cranking battery mounted in a small fiberglass console that will be located over the forward rigging hole.
Should I run the above through positive and negative bus bars or just wire them directly to the battery? Either way will have fuses of course.
Was thinking about getting a positive and negative bus bars like in the following link (seems like this would make for a cleaner job):
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
quote:
Originally posted by pescazorroI hope to have my boat back from being painted by next Friday and will start the rigging. Progress photos to follow. In the meantime, need a bit more advice.
My electronic components will include the following:
-3 LED nav lights
-Bilge pump
-Lowrance
-And of course new 90 HP Yamahamy plan is to run all of the above off of a 1050 amp DEKA marine cranking battery mounted in a small fiberglass console that will be located over the forward rigging hole.
Should I run the above through positive and negative bus bars or just wire them directly to the battery? Either way will have fuses of course.
Was thinking about getting a positive and negative bus bars like in the following link (seems like this would make for a cleaner job):
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Make it simple and use this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498487283&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+systems+■■■■■■■■■■
Run 10GA power and ground from battery to fuse block. This one still gives you a couple of extras to add on later.
$73 for a buss bar is insane! Note that this fuse block has options for a negative distribution (buss bar) block in it as well. Made my install super easy.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
That looks perfect! So unless I am missing something, all I need beyond this fuse block is good connectors and heat shrink right? Also, I think I might solder my connectors to my wire, then silicone, then heat shrink.
10 gauge good marine wire from battery to fuse block.
What would be an all around good size to run from fuse block to rest of my components.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
check www.genuinedealz.com for awesome prices on marine wire.
You’re right, you need good tinned marine wire from battery (or batt switch if you use one) to fuse block. I would run some tinned copper battery lugs for the cable, and use solder pellets for adhering them. They also have adhesive lined heat shrink, works perfectly - buy more than you think you’ll need.
OR, you can spring for heat-shrink connectors…but in my experience, I’d rather use regular marine connectors and use my own adhesive lined heat shrink.
Rest of stuff will all be fine on 16 AWG, but I ran 14 just because. They have a great duplex cable that is fairly cheap.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Picked up the ole girl from paint shop and could not be happier. Guys did a fantastic job and these pictures don’t do it justice. Will try and get better pictures this weekend.
My goal for the weekend is to pull her off in the yard and refurbish the trailer and bunks. If that goes well, I may rigging by Sunday
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Did you replace the glue on rub rail? If so where did you find it?
I havent put the rub rail back on yet…what u see is where where the line x guys ran the liner on over…i am not aware of glue for the rub rail…to my knowledge. As far asi know its mechanically attached w either pop rivets or screws, i would be interested to here if ii am mossing something.
I have gotten. most of my whaler replacement stuff from www.specialtymarine.com
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC