I am restoring an old whaler and am in need of a new 4 gang switch panel for my center console.
Was hoping the brain trust here could give me a recommendation on what would be the best option as far as quality and durability. All I need are on/off switches. Cant think of a need for 3 position or anything like that.
Also while you are at it. What would be the best option for a mount to floor auto bilge pump?
1973 Montauk
Here is how she’s coming. Had the interior coated with gray line-x. Next step is to have the hull sanded and new gel coat.
That turned out real nice. Good work!
My 66 has the full back bilge area behind the bulkhead. I mounted a regular bilge bump with 5200 in the bottom of the bilge area and wired it up to a little switch box. I liked that approach because no drilling into the floor. Just 2 cents thought.
Great looking job on the line X, I have 1971 17’ model and use a round pump hooked to the hose and wire, it just lays in the bilge, has worked well for many years and has a switch on the console. Justin, love the switch panel!!
I’m interested in who did the linex, what product they used and how much it cost. I’ve heard nothing but horror stories about linex being sprayed in boats. The only success I’ve heard is the linex in Sarasota fl. I would like to think he has spread his product out to other linex dealers in coastal areas.
I’m interested in who did the linex, what product they used and how much it cost. I’ve heard nothing but horror stories about linex being sprayed in boats. The only success I’ve heard is the linex in Sarasota fl. I would like to think he has spread his product out to other linex dealers in coastal areas.
He has not from what I can find…and will not - he’s said a few times now that he doesn’t want to spread it for whatever reasons.
Tri County Line-X off Ashley Phosphate did the work. I am very pleased with end result. This is the actual truck bed liner material and I opted for the solid polyuria(sp)? option.
If its anything like how they perform in trucks, I feel like I could throw cinder blocks in the boat without any issues but I guess time will tell. It feels indestructible but I guess I better knock on wood.
The main reason I opted for Line-x is their willingness to do color options and from all the research I’ve seen they are on equal with Rhino.
I Rhino lined my Jon boat and have loved it but most places are only willing to do black because its such a pain to change machine to a different color or they wanted three times as much money to change to a color.
I paid a little less than $1,500 which I thought was fair considering its over two times the material that a truck bed would take, the amount of hull prep my boat needed, and the fact I went with higher end material.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Are you not going back to stock? I prefer just the teak panel and some old school pull knobs. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I went with the new age rocker switches on my last boat and much prefer my 38 year old Whaler pull knobs on teak.
For the bilge, I just used a standard Rule pump and mounted it to the floor of the bilge. I then ran a PVC pipe layout for the discharge and mounted a rule switch on the teak panel.
Are you not going back to stock? I prefer just the teak panel and some old school pull knobs. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I went with the new age rocker switches on my last boat and much prefer my 38 year old Whaler pull knobs on teak.
For the bilge, I just used a standard Rule pump and mounted it to the floor of the bilge. I then ran a PVC pipe layout for the discharge and mounted a rule switch on the teak panel.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
I guess sort of a hybrid. I found a small center console I plan to use. The back bench seat will be the old school teak bench with back rest. This is going to be more of a work/practical boat used to haul people and gear back and forth from a fish camp off Beaufort.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
I had a boat done years ago by Line X of Greenville! Still solid as a rock. Had mine done in black and painted it with two part white polyurithane paint.
Just replaced the switch panel on my skiff with this (same as factory installed, but much more sturdy) Good quality for the price. Comes with a sheet of labels for the breakers.
Make sure to spray the back of the breakers with Corrosion Block.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Thanks lowcountry! I think that will be perfect. Was looking for something simple and practicle. This also looks fairly waterproof from the outside too…
THX
H
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Toggles are great but watch out where place them so as not to accendently hit them when moveing around the console! I moved mine because I always cut on the lights with my hip when exiting the seat!
I hope to have this rig back in the next two weeks from having bodywork completed.
It is a 1973 17’ Montauk…actual length is 16’-7"
Wrestling with what I should repower with. Definitely going with Yamaha. Boat is rated for a 100 HP which is no longer offered. So my options are 90 HP or 115HP. I am leaning toward 115. Do you guys see this as a problem? Will I have issues with insuring the boat?
As far as weight, I don’t think that’s an issue. Unless I am reading something wrong, the weight differential between the 90 and 115 is only like 10 pounds.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
F70 Yamaha. That hull was designed for lightweight 2 strokes. I don’t think a 400# 115 Yamaha would suit it very well. These hulls slap and porpoise pretty bad, I wouldn’t make it worse with too much weight. You probably won’t even see the performance gain on the 115 as you won’t be able to optimize the trim. Just burn more fuel.
The 70 would cruise very well, minimize slap, sip fuel and just fit that package IMO. That or an ETEC 90.
F70 Yamaha. That hull was designed for lightweight 2 strokes. I don’t think a 400# 115 Yamaha would suit it very well. These hulls slap and porpoise pretty bad, I wouldn’t make it worse with too much weight. You probably won’t even see the performance gain on the 115 as you won’t be able to optimize the trim. Just burn more fuel.
The 70 would cruise very well, minimize slap, sip fuel and just fit that package IMO. That or an ETEC 90.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Interesting and thanks for the info. From what I am reading, a four stroke 90 is 370# and a 115 is 380#. I researched early seventies 100 HP evinrudes and they were a little over 300# if I am reading correctly.
One other piece of info I failed to mention is that this boat will almost always be heavily loaded with people and gear as it will mostly be a taxi back and forth to a fish camp.
“Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give… Never Take.”
EC
Mine has a 300# V4 Johnson 90. I couldn’t imagine anymore weight or HP on this hull. Mine runs 47 mph with a jackplate and trim tabs.
However, I never run more than about 3500-4000 rpms at around 28-30 mph. If I had to buy a new engine for it, I would be going light and sticking to a top speed of 35-38 mph. That’s just me though.
Yamaha website has 386 on the 115 and 366 on the 90. You will be fine with the 90 Yamaha, but I think the F70 would probably only be 2-3 MPH slower and a better fit. Talk to Chris V, he would know better.
Make sure you don’t compare your hull to the newer 170 Montauk. Much different hull that was designed for 4 stroke power.
Mine had a 90 Johnson on it when i bought it in 93, it blew and I had a Merc 150 long shaft that I ran on it for 8 years till the foot locked up and it was so corroded it fell apart when I tried to remove it so I took a 200 Merc off my bass boat to make it tru shrimp season then found a deal on a 25" 115 2s Yam. that I am still running on a jack plate. The 200 was not to heavy for it just a little over powered!It would run 70 on GPS, never could find anyone to ride with me!
