I want to build a storage area in my boat. What wood should I use. It will be completely glassed in. I have done a lot of fiberglass work before but just not sure what wood to use. A buddy suggested mdo plywood. Any suggestions or comments on structural issues. I plan to put a hatch in the middle. Thanks
84’ 18 Privateer
08’ Yamaha 90
There are always greater fish than you have caught, always the lure of greater task and achievement, always the inspiration to seek, to endure, to find.
any 3/4 plywood just resin the crap out of it after you cut it to fit
and before you assemble get the edges real good
Brian
Woodfloats?
If encased in glass and resin any plywood should work but if you can find marine plywood it will be more waterproof if a joint leaks in the future and is higher in quality, stronger with no voids, over what is available these days in regular plywood. If you want the best option you could use a synthetic honeycomb laminate that is extremely light and rot-proof. I used Plascore when I built a boat couple years ago but I had to order it from the factory in Michigan.
18.5 Baycraft Flats Edition
Johnson 150 Oceanrunner
Wood Driftboat
if you use glass and resin, on both sides, I would use CDX 1/2" plywood
lowcost, and has exterior glue if it does get moisture.
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
3/4" Foam board glassed both sides if you’re concerned with weight at all, get the blue foam board at lowes and preglass the insides then glass outside.
Russ B.
God is great, Beer is good, People are crazy
An alternative to glassing it in, and if you don’t need it to be watertight is to buld it our of a nice wood. I have found that Ipe wood is a great alternative to teak. It commonly used for very high-end decks and is better than any other wood (including pressure-treated) for rot resistance. In fact, the new waterfront park under the Rav bridge on the Mount Pleasant side had loads of the stuff on benches, railings, and even in the playground. All the bench seat slats on top of the bridge are also Ipe.
It is very dense and unbelievably strong and you must pre-drill any screws you drive in or you will twist off the heads. It works nicely and sands super smooth, no splintering or checking when sawing or routing. One downside is tha the dust is an irritant to your eyes and nose. Also, it does not take a high-glossy surface finish (like a varnish) but instead is oiled with a penetrating oil (like teak oil).
jtnapier
where do you get that honeycomb stuff fo cheap?
ft worry.
whatever you decide to use I would consider making it so that it can be taken on and off the boat. That way, you could use it as storage and a higher forward casting deck when in, but not lose the advantage and safety of the lower forward casting and fish fighting deck when conditions merit.
Pathfinder 2200V
Yamaha 175 VMax
Johnny, I am not aware of any less expensive versions but there may be some out there. One competitor is Nidacore. I was very happy with the way it worked for me, I used it for the bottom of a boat, covering both sides with Kevlar, glass cloth and epoxy resin. Look here if you are interested:
http://www.plascore.com/
http://nida-core.com/english
18.5 Baycraft Flats Edition
Johnson 150 Oceanrunner
Wood Driftboat
I would not suggest Natalie Wood.
GW 232GT Gulfstream
150Yam x 2
“3rd Day”
Gen. Chap.1 Vs.9-13
Sorry, could not resist.
GW 232GT Gulfstream
150Yam x 2
“3rd Day”
Gen. Chap.1 Vs.9-13
How about Tiger Wood?