Henry O has a new transom and is getting a new Yamaha 115 this week. The trailer is older than the boat. Needs axle and structural work. Better to buy new.
Boat + fuel + gear + etc.= about 2000 lbs.
Aluminum or galv?
Brakes no brakes?
Brand?
What do you have? What do you like / dislike about it?
If you plan on keeping it ling term & fish salt a lot I would go Alum.
At that weight I see no need for brakes if your pulling with a full size truck.
What areeldrag said. If available and not to costly, I’d go Torsion axles. Steel springs in salt will fail, but they are cheap and reasonably easy to replace. Trailer brakes in salt water use, not a matter of if they fail, but when. in my experience. 2000# load should be no issue for any light truck or suv.
Yep. Aluminum, torsion, no brakes.
Get a good lock for it, trailers ain’t cheap these days!
Do your self a favor and get good hubs while you’re doing this. Cheap insurance in my book. Nothing worse than wanting to go fishing and you have to deal with busted hubs.
https://trailerparts.com/vortex.html
“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017
Thanks for the ■■■■■■■■.
Any suggestions for manufacturer?
All about the same?
'Been a long time since a I bought a trailer. (The one she’s sitting on now is 30+ yrs old.)
Consider this PS ,you don’t want a trailer that someone wants to steal,especially if you go giggin or camping.You seem like a fella that can fix anything,just something to think about.
I’ll agree with getting good hubs.
While on the hub subject, all my trailers I install the grease seal backwards and install bearing buddy’s. if you don’t turn the seals around they will not let grease be forced out. this why when you pump grease in under pressure it whill allow new grease to be pushed through to inner bearing and out seal. You will get a little more mess on the inside of the rim, but not too bad. It does not come out while traveling only if you force grease into the hub. Even better than bearing buddy’s look for the spindle/axle with pre drilled/ cross drilled hole to center of bearings and zerk fitting on end.
I have a Wesco trailer & so far it has been good but have had it less than a year.
Only thing I don’t like is I feel like the tongue is a little short. I have to back down to where my truck tire almost or just do touch the water to get the boat to load & unload.
I have never had this issue with past boats / trailers.
Unfortunately,they sold you a trailer that was short for your boat.You gotta watch them salesmen.haha
PS, lookup the Dexter EZ lube vid. It’s the type Fred referred to with drilled spindle. I have a dual axle and single axle trailer with these and not an issue. No need in repacking bearings.
The single axle trailer I bought was for a new 16’ Jon Boat. Had a trailer already, but wasn’t quite big enough so purchased new Wesco from Columbia, SC and it came with those predrilled spindles.
Also wanna mention, when I ordered the trailer from Wesco, had then add a foot to tongue to help keep tow vehicle out of the salt and to use all stainless bolts, U-bolts, etc. The stainless request added $75.
Anyway, took that small trailer and converted to a nice, double Kayak hauler:+1:.
Good luck.
NN
Spend some money or weld up your trailer…torsion axle and new hubs…
You axed.
You deserve a new trailer. Life is short. Get what you want…beer
Fix what you got and keep fixing…reality.
The sad part about it…you’ll be fixing the new one before 30 years…
C’mon Main.
I’ll second that on the Dexter EZ lube axles. I’ve towed back and forth to the Keys and the west coast of FL many times and never had a hub issue. Aluminum all the way as far as the trailer is concerned.
As the owner of an only recently dead 1995 Johnson 88spl that was on the back of a 1988 Henry O hull, I’m tend to try to make things work for a long time. So, I find some resonance in the idea of fixing the old one. However, it has been re-rigged several times. All the welded-on parts (fenders, spring hangers, side guide, front roller mount, etc.) have long been ground off and replaced with bolt on parts. Could easily put new fenders and axle on it.
BUT, the frame is suffering the ravages of 30 years of salt water dipping. Failure is not eminent. But, the cancer is real and it will win. We’ll get another season out of it. But, after that the frame will likely need some cutting/welding. In my experience, there is no way to coat a steel weld joint well enough to keep it from dissolving when you take it near salt water. So, the shopping research has begun.
Thanks to all for the input.
Very interesting subject.
I have been thinking about a total rebuild of my double axel trailer for some time, too long a time. I was going to replace hubs, spindles, bunks, lights, etc, Adding all that up I started looking at a new ride for the boat (22’ center console). I asked an un named dealer about a 6000 lb aluminum, all SS hardware drilled hubs and NO brakes. He said he would “work it up and get back to me”. Well he didn’t give me a price just a short e mail saying it would be illegal to sell a trailer without brakes. I read through this post but didn’t see any recommendations for a good dealer. If they must sell it with brakes, so be it. Any suggestions?
Thank ya’ll
Removing brakes is a pie job…
Yep it is!
I bought a trailer several years ago from Charleston trailer. aluminum with no brakes for a 22’Sea Fox. The same trailer with brakes was almost a $1000 more. Got the whole setup (tie down) online for less than 500 bucks. Going to change it from surge brakes to electric over hydraulic before I go to Florida again…
22 life’s a day