wiring connectors

General Boats and Motors
1

I’m about to replace my trailer lights with all LEDs. I’m tired of replacing bulbs that the saltwater keeps eating up. I’ve already ordered the new tail lights and marker lights. Anybody know the best way to keep the new connections dry so they won’t corrode. I was thinking the heat shrink butt connectors with the adhesive inside would be the best. Any body have any other input?

'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki

2

Move them up on side posts. Saltwater will eat up LEDs too.

3

I changed all my tra lights to Led 2 years ago beat move yet! I used crimps and covered them with silicone calk, has lasted so far.

4

My lights are mounted on the trailer guide ons so they never get wet unless it rains. On all of my wire connections, I use good butt connectors with heat shrink and also put about 4" of heat shrink over that as a safety precaution. Caulk would work too, but personally I would use 4200 instead of silicone.

Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069

5
quote:
Originally posted by TheIslander

Move them up on side posts. Saltwater will eat up LEDs too.

Not an option. I bought all sealed lights, so hopefully no problems.

'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki

6

I use butt connectors and then seal the ends with liquid electrical tape with shrink tube over them. I then seal the ends of the shrink tube with liquid tape. Never had one leak or corrode!

7

Dialetric grease on the connections, good butt connectors with heat shrink and another piece of heat shrink over the butt connector. Probably overkill, but who wants to tear it back apart in a few months and redo it

A.C.

8

Heat shrink butt connectors - http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=35701&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50566&classNum=50568#.UL5dr-8s3To

You crimp them and then use a lighter or similar to heat them. As the outside shrinks, goo on the inside melts and pushes out the ends. A little more expensive than regular butt connectors. But, they work well.

17’ Henry O Hornet
26’ Palmer Scott

9

http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-6.pdf
(see bottom item)

same as above, but you can touch the middle with a solder iron and solder the wires together then use a heat gun to seal the sides. redoing the wiring on my trailer this winter with these guys, and putting shrink over the top. even more expensive than the others, about $1 a connection, but whats it worth not to have to wiggle around under the boat every 6 months?

10

Thanks guys, I will overkill it as usual.

'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki

11
quote:
Originally posted by TheIslander

Move them up on side posts. Saltwater will eat up LEDs too.

Yes it will.

Use Ancor Adhesive Lined, Heat-Shrink, Crimp Butt-Connectors for a tight seal.

Thanks, Captain Ross
http://T-Topless.com folding, stainless steel T-Top fits most center console boats
http://ShadowTop.com entry level (Do-It-Yourself) T-Topless kit
http://Montauk-T-Topless.com for Boston Whaler Montauk, Dauntless or Outrage
http://Flats-Top.com Shade for Flats Boats
http://RNR-Marine.com/Canvas.shtml Original OEM factory replacement Sunbrella canvas for Sea Pro, Sea Boss, McKee Craft, Key West, Sea Hunt, Cobia, Sea Fox, Pioneer, Everglades, Tidewater, Mariah, Cobia, Caravelle, Baha Cruisers & Palmetto Custom.</font id=“size1”>

Drop your top and go T-Topless! T-Topless@RNR-Marine.com

12
quote:
Use Ancor Adhesive Lined, Heat-Shrink, Crimp Butt-Connectors for a tight seal.

Same here, good stuff!

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Marine Surveying & Repair

13
quote:
Originally posted by Cracker Larry
quote:
Use Ancor Adhesive Lined, Heat-Shrink, Crimp Butt-Connectors for a tight seal.

Same here, good stuff!

Al we use on the lights in our T-Tops - never have a problem.

We went a little overboard on our trailer wiring for the Sea-Pro as well. Used Ancor 14ga Jacketed Tinned Copper wire inside grey PVC electrical conduit, connected to LED PVC Pole lights (stay above water). We trailer a lot of miles (over 1,000miles last week at Thanksgiving for example), and have had NO problems for 5 or 6 years now. Well worth the peace of mind.

Thanks, Captain Ross
http://T-Topless.com folding, stainless steel T-Top fits most center console boats
http://ShadowTop.com entry level (Do-It-Yourself) T-Topless kit
http://Montauk-T-Topless.com for Boston Whaler Montauk, Dauntless or Outrage
http://Flats-Top.com Shade for Flats Boats
http://RNR-Marine.com/Canvas.shtml Original OEM factory replacement Sunbrella canvas for Sea Pro, Sea Boss, McKee Craft, Key West, Sea Hunt, Cobia, Sea Fox, Pioneer, Everglades, Tidewater, Mariah, Cobia, Caravelle, Baha Cruisers & Palmetto Custom.</font id=“size1”>

Drop your top and go T-Topless! T-Topless@RNR-Marine.com

14

I use the 3M brand heat shrink connectors (crimp and then heat shrink em) on mine followed with a coating of liquid electric tape and haven’t had a problem. All available at Wal Mart. I also followed Phin’s advice and used extension cords for my wiring. Since the cords are 3 wire, I ran the ground from the light back to connector at tongue rather than grounding on trailer at light (since I always had problems with that connection corroding and failing).

15

Tinned Copper wire will help prevent the copper from oxidizing. The moisture/salt still gets through the jacket (rubber, not marine rated) on an extension cord, and eventually ruins the copper strands.

Per Ancor, Tinned Copper Wire:

  • Resists corrosion from salt and moisture found in the marine environment.
  • Lasts up to 10 times longer than non-tinned wire
  • Better conductivity than bare copper wire
[url]http://www.marinco.com/files/media/guides/ANCOR%20Features_tech%20data.pdf[/url]

The extension cords may be heavy enough to last a few years however.

We’ve used Ancor Tinned Copper on our boats and T-Tops for years - never had a problem. The “submersible” LED lights are another story however …

Thanks, Captain Ross
http://T-Topless.com folding, stainless steel T-Top fits most center console boats
http://ShadowTop.com entry level (Do-It-Yourself) T-Topless kit
http://Montauk-T-Topless.com for Boston Whaler Montauk, Dauntless or Outrage
http://Flats-Top.com Shade for Flats Boats
http://RNR-Marine.com/Canvas.shtml Original OEM factory replacement Sunbrella canvas for Sea Pro, Sea Boss, McKee Craft, Key West, Sea Hunt, Cobia, Sea Fox, Pioneer, Everglades, Tidewater, Mariah, Cobia, Caravelle, Baha Cruisers & Palmetto Custom.</font id=“size1”>

Drop your top and go T-Topless! T-Topless@RNR-Marine.com