Hey guys I’m hoping someone can shed some light on this for me. I’ve got a 1993 Yamaha 40 outboard with electric start. Ever since I’ve had it, the key has been broken off inside and I’ve been using a screwdriver to start. A mechanic told me that to change out the switch, I’d have to change the entire wiring harness, which from what I’ve found is very expensive.
Is there another option? I see lots of aftermarket switches on eBay and Amazon for pretty cheap, but all are push to choke, which mine is not. Another mechanic told me I could use one of those but just not connect the wire for the choke.
Can anyone help me with this? Model is 40 elrr
not sure why you were told that, but that is not usually the case.
Yamaha offers replacement key switches, and the 10 pin main wiring harness is the same today as it was in the 1984-85 when Yamaha first came to the united states.
push to choke simply means there is a blue wire in the key switch harness that attaches to the blue wire in the 10 pin boat harness.
if you have a separate choke toggle switch, that blue wire on the switch harness would simply not be connected to anything.
if you have a side mount (703) control box, the only hard part is going to be getting the box apart, and the wires stuffed back in the box properly so it will bolt back together.
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Have you tried using a magnet to remove the old key, I have used them many time to rempove broken keys in construction equiptment!
A little help needed to figure out this switch. I got an aftermarket switch on eBay but have no idea how to connect it now that I’m looking at the wiring on the motor.
The first pics are of the switch and harness on the motor. The last pic is the switch that I bought. It’s product number 703-82510-43. It’s an aftermarket and not sure if the wires are color coded or not.
Can you guys tell me if this will work?
Wiring Diagrams are my go to with unfamiliar territory. Find the oem one online and see if one was included with the new one. Try and remove the old switch from its housing to see if you can see individual wire coloring, if not carefully remove some of the main black outer shielding shown in the upper photo to see individual wires.
172 Sea Hunt Triton
Laser Sailboat
take out the old switch and you will see where the connection is.
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quote:
Originally posted by camWiring Diagrams are my go to with unfamiliar territory. Find the oem one online and see if one was included with the new one. Try and remove the old switch from its housing to see if you can see individual wire coloring, if not carefully remove some of the main black outer shielding shown in the upper photo to see individual wires.
172 Sea Hunt Triton
Laser Sailboat
I’ve seen the color codes online for the oem switch but unfortunately the new switch didn’t come with a diagram and I’m doubtful that it’s color coded the same. I’m guessing I’ll just have to trace them to see what goes where. I can see that some of the wires on the old switch have been cut.
So are all the plugs located within that sheath?
Take the old one out and you’ll see how it connects.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
one of the issues, is that is a tiller handle motor, not a remote steer.
was that motor converted to be a tiller handle?
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It wasn’t converted to my knowledge, I assume it’s always been a tiller. Only thing that’s been altered that I can tell is the oil pump was removed. Obviously I don’t know much about motors, but what’s that got to do with it? Did I get the wrong type of switch?
THE SWITCH IS THE SAME, JUST THE WAY THE WIRES ARE MADE COMING OUT OF THE SWITCH CAN BE DIFFERENT.
THE COLORS WILL BE THE SAME, AND THE MOUNT WILL BE THE SAME. WIRES MAYBE DIFFERENT LENGTH, AND MAY HAVE UNUSED PLUGS.
THE SWITCH YOU HAVE IS SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR A SIDE MOUNT CONTROL BOX, BUT IT SHOULD STILL PLUG RIGHT IN.
THE REASON I ASKED IF IT WAS CONVERTED, YAMAHA DOESNT LIST A 1993 TILLER HANDLE MOTOR WITH ELECTRIC START, BUT THAT ISNT A GAURANTEE, SOMETIMES THE OLDER MOTORS ARENT ALWAYS LISTED CORRECTLY.
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