I have a 2005 Yamaha 60hp 4 stroke that has been almost trouble free. About a year ago, it started having trouble starting. With the stick in nuetral, I turn the key and hear the solenoid click, but the starter motor would not turn over. So, I turn the key off and back on until the starter turns over and the motor fires. Sometimes it starts on the first turn of the key, sometimes it takes 20 turns. I have checked all connections and fuses for corrosion etc. and they all seem fine. Sometimes it will start 10 times in a row without issue so taking it to the shop seems like it would lead to a part changing frenzy. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem might be?
Thanks in advance, O.C.
p.s. I do have a Sea Tow membership!
First of all, any shop worth a crap isn’t going to just shotgun it and change parts. They will troubleshoot it and replace what is actually wrong. The only way you are going to find the problem is by properly troubleshooting from the ignition switch to the starter and it could be several things. Have faith in a good shop, that’s what they get paid to do.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
It is an intermittent electrical problem wich in my experience has to be failing at the time of diagnosis. If not, replacing parts based on a theory is the only other option. I would far rather take it to a reputable shop than wonder if I’ll have to call Sea Tow every time I’m on the water. Thanks for the advice.
“Junk always sounds best.”
My 2 cents.
The “click” is most likely the starter relay closing the contacts. Use a volt ohm meter (VOM)to check for voltage down stream from the relay. You can have someone engage the relay from the switch while you check with the VOM for voltage on both sides of the relay. (large wires) If you have voltage on both sides of the relay with the switch engaged check at the starter. It is most likely the relay contacts going bad if that is the “click” that you hear.
Another thought is that your relay is not secure to the motor causing a grounding issue.
Hope this helps.
I don’t think checking voltage downstream of the solenoid would be a determinative test. You can have a very weak/poor connection in the solenoid (contacts) and still get 12v+ through it. You won’t, however, get 100s of amps through it. Therein may lie your problem. Checking amperage downstream would be determinative… I think.
Your starter requires 100s of amperes to spin itself and the gas motor. But, it is a little dangerous to run 100s of amps through the thingy that the human is putting his hands on. So, we use a solenoid to flip the switch for the human. The solenoid requires a minor portion of an amp to work, so we can run that wiring through the key switch without worrying about the human attached. You turn the key, 12v with a fraction of an amp goes to the solenoid. The solenoid is designed so that anything close to 12v will close it. It closes and completes the connection between the starter motor and your battery and 100s or amps fly through to the starter.
If you hear the solenoid closing (clicking), then the problem lies elsewhere.
Possible problems.
1 - weak battery(ies) - If your batteries are weak, they can still play the radio, turn on the lights, and throw the solenoid. But, once the solenoid clicks shut, the required 100s of amps to spin the motor aren’t available. Thus, you get clicking, but, no spinning.
2 - connection between the battery and solenoid or between the solenoid and starter are bad. Some of what you describe makes me think this is the issue. When you have a dirty/corroded connection and you ask it to carry a decent amount of power, it will heat up. Often, that heating up can bake the connection and cause it to marginally repair itself. I’ve seen battery connections melt themselves. So, turn the key once. Nothing. But, you just heated up the connections some. Turn it again. Nothing. Connection gets hotter. Repeat until things get hot enough to make the connection shift/melt a little/bake and suddenly you get enough juice through the connect
Agree with the above. Also make sure when you hear the click, the starter gear is pushing up and engaging the flywheel. Check the connections and if that does n`t work, replace the battery. Batteries can get a dead cell that will work sometimes. The plates corrode and will test 12 volts but not under a load.
you can test amp load while starting
could be keyswitch, cables, solenoid, or starter