Im in the process of rebuilding a 2 stroke 96 mercury 115hp (2+2) motor that had a bad #4 piston. I replaced the piston with a new one and also had to have a new sleeve put in bored .020. I had some ?s regarding Bearing wear.I also have a extra parts motor for this motor and used some of the bearings out it.
1.Can I use white lithium grease to hold the little roller bearings in place( main, conn.rod, wrist pin bearings)? Ive also heard to use vasoline. Any suggestions
2.Can i reuse the same bearings in #1,#2,#3 connecting rod caged bearings being i had good compression on these cylinders and thers not a lot of wear on them. The Bearings did fall out easily when I took them apart some stick in the cage and some are kinda loose will fall out without grease to hold them in the cage.
3.I used two good main bearings out of the parts motor to replace with my motor. The main bearings had a little wear to them but nothing that was feelable to the touch. I understand it will bite me in the butt later but im tryin to get back in the water for the rest of the season and then replace them later or go with a repower 4 strokes. Will this be a major problem and can you do that with two diffent cranks. The parts motor was never run in saltwater and was really clean except it through a rod in #4 cylinder. The bearings and piston on the other cylinder were really good looking and still std piston.
Can someone help me out with this being im wanting to reassemble this week to fish next week some day offshore.
Any help? The main question i really need answered is it ok to use white lithium grease to hold all the bearings in place or will this cause trouble with the first fire up. I read it says to use OEM grease for the job but im on a tight budget with this rebuild and wanna get it back on the water. Will vasoline work better as thats another alternative ive seen on the web. All suggestions welcomed.
you can use Vaseline
I would not reuse the caged bearings if the needles fall out
if you had a new sleeve installed, why did you have it bored .20 over instead
what happen was somehow the sleeve chipped at the crankside and worked between the piston and head and was beating around in there pretty bad. So I took it to simmons and ask them to replace the sleeve with whatever came out of the motor to make it less confusing to me, they also grinded down the deep looking punch marks that it had in the head. They did a great job and it looks really good. Ive rebuilt a couple of chevy motors and am pretty sure its about the same as far as what ive seen so far, Just need to know about the bearings and what to use to hold them in. The main bearings looked good and to touch had no marks in the bearing itself so I reused them. Not all the needles fell out of the cages less than half out of the whole motor. Are they suppose to all stay in there really tight. or is there a way to tell if theres to much slop. I assembled the powerhead with the caged bearings last night torque everything to 35lbs and the motor sounds pretty good when i rotate it fast using a a impact on flywheel nut. Ive pushed on the pistons and have little to no play. I’m on a tight budget and asked my wife if I could buy the bearings and she said absolutly no lol typicall wife that loves to play on the boat n water but doesnt understand what it takes to get out there. Im just going to use them for now till I can sneak it by the wife. Hope it goes well. Can you use white lithium grease instead of vasoline.
Well I used very little just enough to stick any bearings that were loose. Installed powerhead,reeds,bleed lines,starter trigger stator,flywheel. Then the sky drops. I did get enough hooked up to do a compression test and I got 140 on each cylinder. When I installed everything and spun it without spark plugs in the motor sounds really good and the knock is gone,so far I guess the bearings will work out. Tomorrow will tell. Are there any special needs or extra oil I should run on break in period How long and what are the procedures to breaking in the rings and new piston.
Tomorrow I plan to finish installing VT regulator, carbs, spark plugs, cowlings, lower unit. Then we will fire her up. Hope it works out lol. wish me luck fellas!!
double oil first 8 hours
low rpms first 2 hours below 2500
vary rpms by at least 200 every 5 minutes
you should not be seeing 140psi
it should be 110-120
Chris V: I have one of the cheap snap on brand compression test guages and it always tells me a higher reading than what other people get I did it and got 140 140 140 130 when i tested the motor in may. I took it to hankel they tested 135 135 135 120 so… And I feel like I got jacked cause I asked them to check the motor out and make sure everything was running right and they told me it was a bad trigger. Then a week later they called me up and said I had a bad stator WTF, after noon before they told me it would be ready. Well I picked up the boat and told them Id do that. the bill was $700 Im such a dumbass for not doing it myself. Anyways bought a parts motor for $700 and replaced stator and switchbox. Ok Finally getting good spark and fire her up and I find out shes got a serious knock going on WTF again. So I look into the cylinder and I find bad piston, so I pulled the exhuast plate and find bad rings, scored cylinder. Well thats why the compression was bad from the start. Same on Hankel for telling me the motors are good to go and just need to replace the stator. Learn to do all my own work for now on. Enough with the crybaby crap, So I tear into the motor and that only took 3 hrs as much man hrs as they charged me to replace two freaking triggers. My wifes not helping by giving me crap telling me (B.O.A.T) Break Out Another Thousand lol so I tell her boat ride Break Out Another Benji LMAO and she gets furious lol. Anyways back to reality just had to give ya the begining story.
25:1 Double Oil check on fresh gas 3 gallon tank
Cleaned carbs before install
Water hooked up no leaks in head or thermostats (hose directly to copper water tube) foot not installed yet
primed bulb and primed and primed wait gas comming out bottom carb flowing out. Tilted motor up drained all the fuel undid bottom carb to check needle and float everything looks to be ok float is closing, needle looks good. Weird checked carb#3 everything looks ok. Replaced#4 carb with the #4 carb on my parts motor and installed everything bac
And I believe Ive burned all the lithum grease out of the motor cause now its just blue smoke. before there was white water coming out exhaust housing.
Yea I think Imma need some outside help on the final tune-up to this motor. I have pulled my hair out enough lol Anyone wanna make some extra cash (Chris V) and stop by the house one day. I keep the mancave filled with beer. Its only of Folly Beach too
I’ll come by for the beer. Don’t know squat about the motor. As I tell Chris, I’ll let him be the motor expert and I won’t try the DIY stuff; as long as I don’t catch him trying to remove his own kidney or prostate.
stickman, I wont ever being removing any of my body parts on purpose, almost lost a fingertip once, but that involved a wood planer, and was definitely not on purpose
fishin, index the flywheel so you can see when each cylinder is at top dead center, and if they are firing correctly.
also, that motor only runs on 2 cylinders at idle
I will say in hankle’s defense, its very common to have multiple electrical components fail together, and if you didn’t let them make the motor run, they wouldn’t have been able to tell the engine had a knock, and something as simple as carbon build up on the rings can cause that small difference in compression.
Those mercs don’t have a removable head to allow a good inspection, so we have a digital inspection camera that lets us look inside when we see something like low compression on 1 cylinder
Lol yea Im done with this weather and me pulling my hair out Im just gonna have to cut my losses and save up for a big 300? Ill figure it out one day. Just an update after doing some venting on CFa and looking up parts and diagrams, Ive decided to go back with the old diaphram and gasket that came off the fuel pump and it worked. Motor stopped flooding and the bulb got hard and stayed hard. So… I go turn the water back on to fire the motor and it just spins over. Pull out the spark tester and nothing no spark on all cylinders, I do not have a DVA meter so I cannot check the readings to tell if the stator is bad so i switched it out with the parts motor stator. Still no spark on any cylinder. Then the sky falls out and bout swipes me out to sea. Wish it would maybe Id be able to fish then. Tomorrows another day. Any suggestions to the no spark I mean I had perfect spark and was working fine before I came to vent went back outside tore fuel pump apart and installed back together and no spark. Weird dunno the motors haunted I guess anyone need a big anchor.
Chris Thats what I used to look inside my block walmart($75) I was just venting and actually use alot of hankels services being they can get alot of mercury parts fast and are extremely easy to deal with. Thanks Celeste but yea I never really gave them a chance to fully diagnose the motor, My lack of patience and budget. I will post some pics if I knew how of the piston and what it looked like. Ill have to index the flywheel like you said. I bought a timing light that reads RPM also from Autozone that I use to check the timing. I believe indexing the flywheel would definitly be a better option, because sometimes if it touches the other wires you get a false reading. But now I have no spark so time to start over.
disconnect the motor harness, take out the sparkplugs and jump the solenoid to spin the motor over, and check for spark again.
biggest weakness with a mercury is the unreliability of the electrical system.
if you still don’t have spark, stator is the next thing to check, as you were already told of a bad stator, and you put an old one on.
I put a new CDI stator on before the rebuild ever happend and had good spark then noticed the knock. Rebuilt the motor and used the same stator I took off and the same trigger hankel replaced also a CDI part. I had good spark when I was starting the motor before I came inside. Ill go do what you said and see if I get any spark. I dont know why a new stator would go out so fast without ever having a hr on it. Ive installed all the wires correctly being they pretty much tell you what color wire goes where. Plus my other motor is running and purrs like a kitten which I double checked everything before I did the start up. Im gonna call CDI in the morning and talk with them about it.